Z32 Wiki - User contributions [en]

Main Page

2018-04-05T22:00:34Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block">
==Welcome to the Z32 Wiki!==
This is largely a '''work in progress'''. This means that many pages are missing or incomplete. The goal of this wiki is to consolidate several years of how-tos, technical info, specifications, for the 1990-1996 Nissan 300ZX, into one convenient location with a consistent look and feel. [[File:FeaturedArticles3.png|frameless|alt=FeaturedArticles3.png]] 
{| class="wikitable"
!
== FAQs ==
!
== Technical Info ==
!
== Guides ==
|-
|
* [[Twin Turbo Conversion|Can I convert my NA to a TT?]]
* [[Glossary]]
* [[Buyer's Guide]]
* [[New Owner's Guide]]
* [[Factory Service Manual]]

|
* [[Production|Z32 Production Info & Stats]]
* [[Air Conditioning System]]
* [[NA-TT Differences|Differences between NA and TTs]]
* [[Year Differences|Differences between years]]
* [[Chassis Differences|Differences between chassis]]

|
* [[Jacking Up The Z|Jacking up the Z]]
* [[ECU Diagnostics]]
* [[Timing Belt Service]]
* [[Intake Manifold Removal]]
* [[Vacuum Diagrams]]

|}

==Recent Updates==
<div class="includeBody-Updates includeBody-Updates includeBody"><div class="includeHeader"> </div>
==2/12/2018 Wikispaces & The Future==
Can you believe it's been 6 years since I've posted an update on here? Happily, there hasn't been much to add, as I feel the Wiki is largely complete, though I have been making slight tweaks and changes here and there. The Z32 Wiki currently sees about 1,000 views per day, most of which are unique visitors (that is, they're not the same people going to the site over and over again, but rather different people accessing the site). I use certain pages daily, for work, like the [[Drive Belt|Belt Guide]], and it's satisfying to see people reference the wiki and pages on here to this day. Now, you probably saw the banner on the top of the page put there by Wikispaces, and yes, they are shutting down completely. However, '''the Z32 Wiki will not be shutting down''' outright. I will be moving the entire Wiki to our server at Concept Z Performance and re-hosting it there. The CZP server has more than enough space and virtually unlimited bandwidth, and actually has much better uptime than Wikispaces does anyway. Once this transition happens, I will update this page to direct users to the new version, though I will most likely be leaving the Wikispaces version in place until Wikispaces themselves shuts down. The Wiki will still remain a non-biased, non-commercialized site. It was my own pet project long before my employment at CZP, and that isn't going to change. I greatly appreciate all of those who have come forward to offer mirroring and hosting services for the Wiki, provide mirrors, etc. It means a lot to me, really. Thank you all for supporting and sharing the Wiki!</div> See past updates in the [[Updates Archive]], and see every single minor change at the [[Space/changes|Recent Changes]] page. 
==Are you a big Z32 nerd like me?==
You can help this wiki grow! Check out the [[Page Guidelines|page guidelines]] article for a little bit of info about what we like to see here.

Windshield

2018-04-05T21:59:43Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Windshield''' is.. well, you know what the windshield is. Here's the stuff you're looking for: 
==Differences==
There are three different windshields for the Z32, all of which are no longer available. ''Thanks to Sandi S. for the bulk of this information.'' 
===Coupe (T-Top and Slicktop)===
All coupe windshields are the same dimensions, for 2-seaters, 2+2, and slicktops . There are two colors: 

* 72712-31P01 - Blue Tint (NLA)
* 72712-31P00 - Bronze Tint (NLA)
* NAG# FW630
* Dimensions: 30" tall, 59" wide.

===Convertible===
There is only one known convertible windshield made. It is NLA. 

* 72712-46P10 - Blue tint (NLA)
* NAG# FW730
* Dimensions: 31.5" tall, 60" wide.
 Aside from the different dimensions, the convertible windshield is unique in that it has integrated antenna for the radio. This is because, unlike the coupe, the convertible did not have solid rear window glass in which to integrate an antenna. A coupe windshield ''can'' be installed into a convertible, but it will lack the antenna, and will not be a perfect fit due to the dimensional differences. 

[[Category:Parts]]

Year Differences

2018-04-05T21:59:43Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

(Copied from [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_300ZX Wikipedia]) . 
===1990===

* No airbag offered (making the gauge cluster unique).
* Manual climate control offered on TT models.
* Blank (no hamburger logo) on the nose panel.
* Offset "NISSAN" logo on front bumper.
* Sales: 39,290 units.

===1991===

* Manual climate controls discontinued.
* New electronic climate controls allowing control over air flow direction, but no more ambient temp gauge.
* Nissan logo put on the front fascia (nose panel).
* Driver's airbag now optional.
* Air conditioner evaporator valve changed from aluminum to steel for better sound insulation.
* Naturally Aspirated model's brake rotors changed to Turbo units. Previous NA rotors were 4 mm thinner.
* CD player option added for both the TT and NA; it was previously only available in the NA.
* Bose stereo head unit changed.
* Brake master cylinder changed to new unit in February 1991.
* Sales: 17,652 units.

===1992===

* Driver's airbag made standard.
* Dashboard and door complementary material changed from fabric to suede.
* Separate mirror heater switch eliminated (combined with rear defroster switch).
* Power adjustable driver's seat standard on TT.
* Sales: 6,708 units.

===1993===

* Turbo oil line insulation changed for better heat dissipation.
* Convertible option added.
* Brake caliper material changed from aluminum to iron, to help warpage/shimmy problems.
* New style fuel injectors for the non-turbo, (except convertible), that are less prone to premature failure.
* Upgraded Bose stereo made standard.
* AIV system completely eliminated.
* Non-turbo model, (except convertible), ECUs changed from 8-bit to 16-bit by Japan Electronic Control System Co..
* Sales: 11,599 units.

===1994===

* Rear spoiler design changed to a taller, pedestal-type.
* Seat belts redesigned; they were moved from door mounts to true pillar mounts.
* SuperHICAS system changed to an electrically-actuated unit.(previously power steering actuated).
* New style fuel injectors for the convertible.
* Passenger's side airbag introduced and made standard.
* Keyless entry added.
* Titanium keys discontinued in November 1994.
* 'Reset' button removed from clock.
* Off-white 'Pearl' color is dropped. Future 'Pearls' are more of a semi-metallic white.
* Sales: 5,320 units.

===1995===

* New style fuel injectors for the twin-turbo
* Front fascia became body coloured instead of gray strip.
* Twin-turbo model ECUs changed from 8-bit to 16-bit (happened late in '94 model year)
* Sales: 3,135 units.

===1996===

* Variable cam timing (VTC) dropped.
* OBD II electronics introduced.
* Driver's seat back rest no longer included adjustable side bolsters.
* Sales: 2929 Units total, The last 300 of which are the "Commemorative Edition."

===1997+ (Japan)===
In 1997, all Z32 models adopted the twin-turbo front fascia, presumably to lower production costs. In 1998, for 1999, the Z32 received a cosmetic update. To name some, the differences included: 

* New front fascia
* New side-skirts
* New taillights (featuring clear turn signal lenses, chrome housings, and black pinstriping)
* New center panel ("300ZX" became red instead of silver)
* New rear spoiler
* Light gold gauges (similar to the Maxima from the same era)
* A slew of new interior options (including carbon fiber accents, "lift-style" window switches, and optional Recaro SR seats).
The 1998 Z32 also received a revised Manual Transmission, which used stronger synchronizers to combat a common "soft-synchro" problem that had become apparent on earlier Z32s. 

[[Category:General Info]]

Water Pump

2018-04-05T21:59:42Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Water Pump''' is an vital component of the [[Cooling System|cooling system]]. It causes coolant to circulate throughout the cooling system. [[File:4335l.jpg|frameless|alt=4335l.jpg]] 
==Function==
The water pump is mounted to the front of the engine block. Its pulley holds the [[Cooling Fan|cooling fan]] and [[Fan Clutch|fan clutch]] and is driven by drive belt. As it rotates, its impeller spins to pull coolant through the [[Thermostat Housing|thermostat housing]] and into the engine block, where is is then circulated through the block, heads, heater core, and other [[Cooling System|cooling system]] components. 
==Failures==
The water pump is a durable component, and while it should be replaced every 60,000 miles as part of maintenance, it is not impossible for it to fail at other times from other causes. Non-Nissan water pumps, for example, are especially notorious for premature failure. Some of the ways the water pump can fail are... 

* Worn bearings, causing play in the shaft and leakage.
* Worn seals, causing leakage (seen through a weep hole on the water pump housing).
* Broken housing, caused by over-tightening of its drive belt.
* Eroded impeller blades, caused by the use of tap water through the cooling system, or extended periods of inactivity.
[[File:photo_3_(4).jpg|alt=photo_3_(4).jpg|thumb|A water pump which sat long enough for the impeller blades to erode (right) compared to a good water pump (left).]]
 
==Replacement==
The water pump should be replaced as part of the 60,000 or 120,000 mile maintenance procedure. For more information, see the [[Timing Belt Service]] article. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Wastegate

2018-04-05T21:59:41Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

A '''wastegate''' is a device that bleeds off excess exhaust gasses before entering the turbine of a turbocharger, to maintain a certain boost pressure produced by the turbocharger. By controlling the amount of exhaust gas released through the wastegate (and thus, diverted from entering the turbine), wastegates help maintain a certain desired boost pressure level produced by the turbocharger. 
[[File:0802_impp_05_z+turbonetics+wastegate.jpg|alt=0802_impp_05_z+turbonetics+wastegate.jpg|thumb|A cut-away of an external wastegate by Turbonetics. Photo source; importtuner.com]]
 
===Types of Wastegates===
Most vehicles that come turbocharged from the factory use '''internal wastegates'''. This means that the wastegate is integrated into the exhaust side of the turbocharger itself. This is usually done for cost and/or simplicity. Some feel that the design of internal wastegates can be limiting for high performance, but most feel that it can be made "good enough" for almost all applications. 
[[File:turbowastegate.jpg|alt=turbowastegate.jpg|thumb|A Garrett turbocharger with an internal wastegate (the "door" on the left). Photo source: myturbodiesel.com]]
 Internal wastegates use a pneumatic actuator that swings the wastegate door open, as shown below. 
[[File:swing_valve_web.jpg|alt=swing_valve_web.jpg|thumb|Photo source: airpowersystems.com]]
 '''External wastegates''' use pneumatic valves (essentially the "door" and actuator all in one unit) mounted before the turbocharger on the exhaust manifold. This allows the engine builder to design a larger, more efficient route for the exhaust gas to escape, often yielding improved performance, but at the expense of higher cost and complexity, and physical size. 
[[File:WRX_external_waste_gate_Up_pipe.jpg|alt=WRX_external_waste_gate_Up_pipe.jpg|thumb|An external wastegate setup. Photo source: himni-racing.com]]
 

[[Category:Parts]]

Variable Timing Control

2018-04-05T21:59:40Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

'''Variable Timing Control''' ('''VTC''', sometimes called '''Variable Cam Timing (VCT)''', or '''NVCS''' (Nissan Variable [timing] Control System ''or'' Nissan Variable Cam System) was the name given to the variable cam phasing system featured on the VG30DE(TT) and other similar engines from the era. While similar in application, it is functionally very different and should not be confused with Honda's [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC VTEC] system, which was introduced around the same time. 
[[File:183-rebuild_34.jpg|alt=183-rebuild_34.jpg|thumb|VTC Solenoids being installed in a VG30DE's head.]]
 
==Function==
Variable Timing Control was, at least in the case of the VG30DE, used only on the intake cams. Interestingly, the exhaust side of the head features a cutout that would otherwise appear to accommodate a VTC solenoid. It was a relatively simple (yet mind-bendingly impressive, from an engineering standpoint) solution to a common problem that faces engine designers: timing the cams for good low-end torque or high-end power. Most engines compromise somewhere in the middle, but VTC allowed Nissan to have it's cake and eat it, too. In short, the VTC system allowed the ECU to advance the cam phasing on the intake cams, depending on different engine situations. This allowed the VG30DE to maintain good low-end torque and smoothness, without sacrificing top-end power. 
==ECU Control==
The ECU controls the VTC mechanisms through the two solenoids, mounted on the back of each head (see "VTC Solenoid" below). The NA and TT ECUs use different parameters to control the VTC function. 
===Non-Turbo===
For the VTC to turn on, the following conditions must be true: 

* Temperature between -58°F and 230°F.
* Vehicle speed 6 MPH or higher (0 MPH on some earlier ECUs)
Then, the ECU will enable the VTC if the RPM is between 1800 RPM and 5800 RPM. If the RPM is below the range, it will enable as soon as the TP (the calculated engine load) is above 39ms. [[File:VTC_Control_NA.png|frameless|alt=VTC_Control_NA.png]] 
===Twin Turbo===
For the VTC to turn on, the following conditions must be true: 

* Temperature between -49°F and 230°F.
* Vehicle speed 6 MPH or higher (0 MPH on some earlier ECUs)
Then, the ECU will enable the VTC when the TP (calculated engine load) is above 23ms. The VTC is cut (disabled) at 5900 RPM. The TT ECU still has a parameter to enable VTC by RPM alone, but it is set at 6100 RPM, above the 5900 RPM VTC cut. Because of this, it is essentially ignored. The TT's VTC is enabled by TP and disabled by RPM. [[File:VTC_Control_TT.png|frameless|alt=VTC_Control_TT.png]] 
==Components==
The VTC System was made up of three major components: 
===Camshaft===
''Main Article: [[Camshaft]]'' The Intake Cams feature a ball-spring check valve at the back of the camshaft and a hollow oil passageway throughout, with an opening towards the front. The oil passageway allows oil to enter the cam near the front, and either drain back out at the rear (VTC off) or pressurize the helical piston assembly inside the cam gear (VTC On). 
===VTC Solenoid===
[[File:VTC_Solenoid_Function.jpg|frameless|alt=VTC_Solenoid_Function.jpg]] The VTC solenoid (illustrated above and pictured at the beginning of this article) is a solenoid valve mounted to the back of the head, directly behind the intake camshaft. In it's "resting state" (off), it allows oil which had entered the front of the camshaft to drain back out through the rear. Once activated, the VTC solenoid "plunger" presses on a check-valve at the rear of the cam, effectively blocking the flow of oil from leaving the cam through the rear. This forces oil to pressurize the front chamber in the VTC gear at the front of the cam. 
===VTC Gear===
[[File:VTC_Gear_Function.jpg|alt=VTC_Gear_Function.jpg|thumb|Credit to Ash for the original photo.]]
 The intake gears on equipped Zs (all but USDM 1996 models) featured an internal helical piston assembly. It was made up of three basic components: 

* The main gear, which actually comes into contact with the timing belt. The inside of the gear housing had helical teeth all the way around the inside of it.
* The Inner Shaft. This part connects directly to the camshaft and has a helical teeth all the way around the ''outside'' of it.
* The Helical "piston". This part was a sort of metal "ring" with helical teeth on the inside ''and'' outside of it. This went between the two halves.
When the VTC Solenoid is activated, it allows oil to flow into the front of the gear and pressurize. This pushes the helical piston back (towards the engine). Because the piston links the inner shaft and outer housing via helical teeth, the movement towards the engine causes the inner shaft (and thus, the camshaft) to rotate the camshaft about 20 degrees clockwise (advanced).= 
==Problems==
As with any complex system, the VTC system has a couple of common problems that tend to materialize on our 20-year-old Datsuns. 

* VTC rattle (or tick, knock). There are a few different theories as to why this happens, but the common understanding is it has to do with the helical piston slapping back and forth inside the housing. This is not uncommon in high-mileage engines, but will no doubt begin happening (even with new gears) on engines with heavier valve springs.
* Leakage. In a VTC gear that has begun to fail (usually exhibiting the rattle/knocking noise), the rear/inner shaft becomes "broken" from the gear housing. These two components are pressed together from the factory. When this happens, oil can leak from the rear of the VTC gear.
* Spring fatigue. A common ''perceived'' failure is that the small spring at the front of the gear becomes fatigued, allowing the piston to slap around, causing the VTC rattle noise. It is now understood that these springs practically never wear out. While JWT makes "heavy duty" VTC springs, this is essentially a "band-aid" fix for the gear assembly itself wearing out in some manner, and owners who replace their VTC springs with JWT HD springs virtually unanimously report the noise returning shortly thereafter. Some claim that the JWT HD springs actually hinder performance by essentially locking the VTC mechanism.

==Further Reading==
EF&EC Pages 29 and 30 ([http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=29&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=190 link]) contains further description regarding the function of the VTC system. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Engine Components]]

Valve Cover

2018-04-05T21:59:35Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Valve Cover''' attaches to the top of the [[Cylinder Head|cylinder head]] and protects the camshafts, lifters, and indeed the entire valvetrain. They also serve to keep oil from escaping from the head, and in the case of the Z32, to allow positive crank case pressure to ventilate. The Z32 uses four valve covers. One for the intake cam and one for the exhaust cam, on each head. ''Images from TwinTurbo.NET and Aus300ZX.com.'' 
[[File:0c814967.jpg|alt=0c814967.jpg|thumb|A set of polished valve covers.]]
 
==Removal==
''Prerequisite: [[Intake Manifold Removal|Remove the Intake Manifold]].'' 
===Tools Needed===

* Philips and flat-head screwdrivers.
* 10mm and 12mm sockets and ratchet.
* Assortment of U-Joints, wobble joints, and extensions.
* Long needle-nose pliers.

===Intake Valve Covers===
The two centers valve covers, which cover the intake cams, are very easily removed. 

# Disconnect the PCV hoses (yellow dots on the clamps) that run from the valve covers to the accordion pipes. If these are old and brittle, now would be a great time to replace these with silicone versions. [[File:injectors0039.jpg|frameless|alt=injectors0039.jpg]]
# Remove the 4 x 12mm bolts (red dots) holding the spark plug guide down. Remove the guide, being careful not to lose the little rubber seals at the end. [[File:injectors0037.jpg|frameless|alt=injectors0037.jpg]]
# Remove the 8 philips-head screws on the valve cover. [[File:injectors0065.jpg|frameless|alt=injectors0065.jpg]]
#* Be careful not to lose these screws or the little "spacers" underneath them.
# Lift straight up on the valve cover to remove it.
# Repeat for the opposite side valve cover.

===Exhaust Valve Covers===

# Disconnect the PCV hose at the rear of the driver's side intake valve cover and remove it. If it's too brittle to remove, you can leave it connected but loosen the clamp so the hose can slip off when you remove the valve cover.
#* Now would be a good time to replace this hose with a silicone version.
# Remove the 4 x 12mm bolts (red dots) holding the spark plug guide down. Remove the guide, being careful not to lose the little rubber seals at the end. [[File:injectors0037.jpg|frameless|alt=injectors0037.jpg]] 
# Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts securing the EGR pipe to the EGR valve near the back of the plenum (Main article: [[EGR Removal]]).
# Remove the 8 x 10mm bolts securing the valve cover to the cylinder head.
# For the driver's side, twist and loosen the bracket securing the oil dipstick tube to the valve cover.
# Lift straight away from the cylinder head to remove the valve cover.
# Repeat for the opposite side valve cover.

==Installation==

===Tools Needed===

* Philips and flat-head screwdrivers.
* 10mm socket and ratchet.
* Assortment of U-Joints, wobble joints, and extensions.
* Long needle-nose pliers.

===Parts Needed===

* Intake Valve Cover Gasket Set.
* Half-Circle Exhaust Valve Cover Seals (Solid versions are recommended).
* Liquid Gasket maker.

===Intake Valve Covers===

# Disconnect the VTC Solenoid harness connector.
# Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts securing the VTC solenoid to the back of the cylinder head.
# Remove the old liquid gasket from the VTC solenoid and cylinder head. Ensure that the gasket mating surfaces are both clean and free of debris.
# Apply a narrow bead of RTV across the bottom of the VTC solenoid. [[File:183-rebuild_34.jpg|frameless|alt=183-rebuild_34.jpg]]
# Carefully place the VTC solenoid so that its plunger is lined up with the back of the cam and the bolt-holes are lined up. Hand-thread the bolts in.
# As per your gasket maker's instructions, wait any necessary amount of time for the bead to tack up, then snug the bolts down fully. Torque bolts to 12-18 lb-ft.
# Remove the old gasket from the valve cover (assuming it doesn't simply fall out). Ensure that the gasket mating surfaces are both clean and free of debris.
# Apply a small dab of RTV to the corners near the front of the intake cam. [[File:injectors0064.jpg|frameless|alt=injectors0064.jpg]]
# Lightly coat the new gasket with motor oil.
# Insert the new gasket into the groove on the valve cover until it's nice and snug. [[File:rebuild_36.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_36.jpg]]
# Place the valve cover over the cylinder head and hand-thread the philips screw heads in place. ''Don't forget the little rubber spacers!''
# Progressively tighten the philips head screws in a spiral pattern (starting from the inner-most screws) to 0.7-2.2 lb-ft (which is basically reasonably snug).
# Re-install the spark plug tube guides, being careful to make sure the rubber seals line up properly. No torque setting is listed, but they should be reasonably snug, keeping in mind that the cylinder head is aluminum.
# If you're not doing the exhaust valve covers, go ahead and re-install the PCV hoses now.
# Repeat for the opposite side valve cover. [[File:rebuild_37.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_37.jpg]]

===Exhaust Valve Covers===

# Remove the half-circle (sometimes called "half moon" which annoys me because they're half-circle shapes, not half-crescent shapes >:( ) seals at the rear of the cylinder head. Remove the old liquid gasket material from this seal and the mating surface on the head. Make sure both surfaces are totally clean and free of debris.
#* If you haven't done so before, now would be a good time to replace the half-circle seal as they tend to shrink over time. Even better, use solid aluminum versions available from your friendly neighborhood parts dealer.
# Apply a thin bead of liquid gasket to the underside of the new half-circle seal, and gently insert it into the cylinder head where it belongs. [[File:rebuild_35.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_35.jpg]]
# Remove the old liquid gasket material from the valve cover and head. Ensure that both mating surfaces are totally clean and free of debris.
# Apply a bead of liquid gasket material to the underside of the exhaust valve cover. There is a groove for this gasket. [[File:rebuild_38.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_38.jpg]]
# For the driver's side, make sure the oil dipstick tube bracket is up and out of the way--it likes to jump in between the valve cover and cylinder head.
# Place the valve cover straight onto the cylinder head, being extremely careful not to allow any RTV to rub onto the valvetrain components. If you mess this up, just take it off, clean off the material and try again.
# On the driver's side, set the oil dipstick tube bracket over the valve cover, lining up the bolt holes so the bolt secures down the bracket ''and'' valve cover.
# Hand-thread the 8 x 10mm bolts in.
# Working in a circular motion (starting from the inner-most bolts), tighten the bolts down to 4.6-6.1 lb-ft.
# Re-install the spark plug tube guides, being careful to make sure the rubber seals line up properly. No torque setting is listed, but they should be reasonably snug, keeping in mind that the cylinder head is aluminum. [[File:rebuild_41.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_41.jpg]]
# Re-install the PCV hoses to the intake valve covers. [[File:rebuild_39.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_39.jpg]]
# Repeat for the opposite side valve-cover.

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:How-To Guides]]

VTC Solenoid

2018-04-05T21:59:33Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block"> See [[Variable Timing Control]].

Vacuum Diagrams

2018-04-05T21:59:33Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

These diagrams illustrate the vacuum system in the Z32. Note to editors: Please do NOT upload diagrams in a lossy format (such as JPG) as they severely degrade the image quality. 
===Naturally Aspirated Model (Stock)===
[[File:nadiagram.png|alt=nadiagram.png|thumb|(Click for full-size)]]
 
===Twin Turbo Model (Stock)===
[[File:Manifold.png|alt=Manifold.png|thumb|(Click for full-size)]]
 
===Twin Turbo (Modified)===
[[File:TT_Vac_BoostController.png|alt=TT_Vac_BoostController.png|thumb|(Click for full-size)]]

[[Category:Diagrams]]

VIN Decoding

2018-04-05T21:59:33Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Vehicle Identification Number''' is an 18-digit alphanumeric string that identifies each individual car sold in the United States since 1982. 
==Z32 VINs==
A typical Z32 VIN looks like this: JN1CZ24A6LX000830 ''(That's my car!)'' When we break down the VIN, it is made up of the following blocks: JN1 C Z2 4 A 6 L X 000830 
{| class="wikitable"
| style="text-align: left" | JN1 
| style="text-align: left" | C 
| style="text-align: left" | Z2 
| style="text-align: left" | 4 
| style="text-align: left" | A 
| style="text-align: left" | 6 
| style="text-align: left" | L 
| style="text-align: left" | X 
| style="text-align: left" | 000830 
|-
| style="text-align: left" | Nissan Passenger Car 
| style="text-align: left" | R = Non-Turbo C = Twin Turbo 
| style="text-align: left" | Z32 (1990-1996 300ZX) 
| style="text-align: left" | 4 = Coupe 6 = 2+2 7 = Convertible 
| style="text-align: left" | A = No Air Bags H = Driver's Air Bag D = Dual Air Bags 
| style="text-align: left" | Check Digit 
| style="text-align: left" | L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 
| style="text-align: left" | X = Nissan Shatai Plant 
| style="text-align: left" | Production Number 
|}

[[Category:FAQs]]

VG30DE(TT)

2018-04-05T21:59:31Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''VG30DE(TT)''' is the engine found in the 1990-1996 Nissan 300ZX (Z32). It is a 3.0L (2960 CC), 60 degree-angle V6 engine available in naturally aspirated or twin-turbocharged forms. The engine code defines the following: 

* VG: Engine Series
* 30: 3.0 L displacement
* D: Dual Overhead Cam Valvetrain
* E: Electronic Fuel Injection
* TT: Twin Turbo (if so equipped)
 [[File:817310116_w2Lqw-L.jpg|frameless|alt=817310116_w2Lqw-L.jpg]] 
==Specifications==
The VG30DE(TT) holds the following notable features and specifications. 

* Displacement: 2960CC (3.0L)
* Cylinder Arrangement: 60-degree V-configuration.
* Valvetrain: Dual Overhead Cam per head, 4 valves per cylinder with variable valve timing on the intake cams.
* Combustion Chamber: Pentroof Design
* Compression Ratio: 10.5:1 (NA) or 8.5:1 (TT)
* Head Construction: Aluminum
* Block Construction: Iron, 113 lbs bare (120lbs with girdle).
* Forged Connecting Rods
* Forged Crankshaft
* Full Girdle-Supported Main Cap system
* High-flow oil pump with piston cooling jets
 In stock form, it made 222 HP and 198 lb-ft of torque in Naturally Aspirated form, and 300 HP and 283 lb-ft of torque in Twin Turbo form, which could propel the Z32 to 60 MPH in as low as 5.0 seconds. ''The following is copied/mirrored from AutoSpeed's [http://www.autospeed.com/A_109870/cms/article.html article on the VG30DETT].'' Designed in the late 1980s, Nissan's twin turbo, DOHC, 4-valves per cylinder powerhouse is one of the all-time classic turbo engines. Surprisingly sophisticated both for its time and cost, the engine was fitted to the 300ZX twin turbo sports car. Nissan engineers were aiming very high with the car - the background to the engine development makes this very clear. In this article we'll cover the technical nitty gritty of the engine and its original development goals. 
==The Basic Anatomy==
[[File:Click_for_larger_image.jpg|frameless|alt=Click_for_larger_image.jpg]] The VG30DETT is 2960cc in capacity, with an over-square bore/stroke relationship of 87 and 83mm, respectively. The combustion chambers are of a pent-roof design, with the spark plugs positioned close to the bore centre. The four valves per cylinder are operated by double-overhead cams working with zero-lash hydraulic tappets. The compression ratio of this twin turbo engine is 8.5:1 and the original specs show an SAE NET output of 300hp at 6400 rpm and a peak torque output (again SAE NET) of 283 ft-lb at 3600 rpm. Almost a cube in physical dimensions, the engine is 710mm long, 775mm wide and 695mm high. While based on the much lower-powered VG30DE engine, major changes were made for the twin turbo engine. These weren't just limited to strengthening the engine and installing the twin turbos; instead the opportunity was used to design completely new intake and exhaust systems. The engineers made much of the fact that twin intercoolers, twin throttles, twin plenum chambers, twin turbos, twin exhausts, twin catalytic converters and twin mufflers were adopted. 
==Intake System==
The intake system design had to balance two opposing outcomes: 

* the smaller that the intake runner diameters were made, the greater the frictional losses (and so pressure drops)
* but the larger the intake runner diameters, the slower the airflow speed, resulting in a decrease in cylinder filling, especially at low rpm
 In addition, simulation and testing showed that long intake runners resulted in better torque development at low engine revs - however, fitting long runners into an already crowded engine bay was going to be difficult. Runners that were 360mm long gave peak intake efficiency at 4400 rpm, while lengthening these to 480mm dropped the peak intake efficiency revs to 3600 rpm. Since one of the goals of the engineers was strong bottom-end torque, the longer runners became a requirement. Further testing showed that a runner diameter of 48mm worked well with the 480mm long design. [It's interesting to note the major amount of development that occurred in tuning the intake system in this turbocharged engine. Many turbo engines - including Nissan's own RB26DETT Skyline GT-R engine - have no intake resonance tuning at all.] Once 480mm (nearly 19 inch!) long intake runners had been decided upon, the next question was how they'd be fitted under the bonnet. The previous model VG30DE had placed the plenum chamber centrally on top of the V6, with relatively short but direct runners connecting the plenum to the intake valves. The measured pressure drop with this arrangement was 85 units. [The units used are not completely clear - they may be mm of water at 4.4 cubic metres/minute flow.] The first prototype VG30DETT intake system design placed a plenum chamber above each bank of cylinders, with the intake runners for that head connected to the plenum above it. This required that each runner go through nearly a U-turn, and so was called the 'U-turnport' design. The pressure drop of this design was, however, very high - being measured at 105 units, or nearly 24 per cent higher than the original VG30DE design with the centrally-located plenum chamber. A 'crossport' design was then built, where the plenum chamber feeds the opposite cylinder bank. This design allowed the retention of the long intake runners but gave a measured pressure drop of only 80 units - better than the VG30DE design, despite the use of intake runners nearly twice as long. The change from a U-turnport to a crossport design resulted in a 5 per cent increase in peak power. The intake system ahead of the intake manifold was also extensively developed. The airfilter housing used two filtering elements to provide sufficient filtering area within the tight confines of the engine bay. Only a single airflow meter was used, but the junction where the duct splits to feed each turbo was extensively developed. The final design used a very long radius inner bend reducing measured pressure drop by 77 per cent over some of the designs trialled. Together with the use of a bellmouth at the entrance to the airflow meter, these flow improvements increased peak power by 2 per cent. 
==Twin Turbos==
Since the VG30DETT was launched, we have become used to high performance engines being fitted with twin turbos. However, at that time, it was daring move. In terms of the cost penalty alone, doubling the number of turbos must have been prohibitive. The engineers justified the use of twin turbos with some careful study. To avoid the response penalty of fitting a single large turbo with a commensurately large rotating inertia, the engineers used two hybrid turbos, each with a Garret T25 compressor and a Garret T2 turbine. Using these hybrids reduced rotating inertia by 20 per cent over conventional T2 turbos. And then of course there was the use of two smaller turbos, rather than a single large one. Compared with a single turbo of equivalent flow performance, the use of twin turbos reduced the rotational inertia by 30 per cent. However, the Nissan engineers suggested that the use of twin turbos only became advantageous at peak power outputs of over 250hp. 
==Variable Inlet Valve Timing==
''[[Variable Timing Control|link=Main Article:]]'' NVCS (Nissan Valve Timing Control System) is used to vary the timing of the inlet camshaft by 20 degrees. This table shows the inlet cam timing: 
{| class="wikitable"
| 
| '''Inlet Valve Opens''' 
| '''Inlet Valve Closes''' 
|-
| '''NVCS on''' 
| 19 degrees BTDC 
| 49 degrees ABDC 
|-
| '''NVCS off''' 
| -1 degree BTDC (ie 1 degree after ATDC) 
| 69 degrees ABDC 
|}
The timing of the exhaust valves is fixed, with opening occurring at 59 degrees BBDC and closing at 9 degrees ATDC. [[File:109870_6mg.jpg|frameless|alt=109870_6mg.jpg]] At idle and low loads the NVCS is off, while at medium to high level loads at less than 6100 rpm the NVCS is on. At all loads above 6100 rpm, NVCS is off. The action of NVCS makes a substantial difference at engine speeds below 6100 rpm, adding as much as 30ft-lbs to the torque output. The 28 degrees of overlap when NVCS is on is high compared with what would be used without having variable valve timing. The similar era Nissan RB30ET SOHC turbo in-line six (as fitted to the Holden VL Turbo) can be compared - it has a cam overlap of only 18 degrees. Note that the graph shows that more torque is obtained everywhere under 6100 rpm with the NVCS 'on' valve timing; however the 8 degree overlap that occurs with the NVCS off helps give a very smooth idle. 
==Engine Internals==
Upgrades made to the VG30DETT over the VG30DE include the use of pistons with fully floating gudgeon pins, piston oil squirters and pistons equipped with cooling channels, "autothermatic" pistons with insert steel struts, and better conrod big-end bearing materials. The exhaust manifold was cast from Ni-resist D5S material rather than conventional high silicon cast iron, giving an improvement in tensile strength from 3 kg/square mm to 9 kg/square mm at an expected maximum exhaust temperature of 900 degrees C. The con-rods were also made from an upgraded material - micro-alloyed steel. This also enabled a reduction in conrod mass of 93 grams. The crankshaft was also made from micro-alloyed steel, strengthened at the webs. The VG30DETT crank is 10 per cent stiffer than that fitted to the VG30DE. The sump was also reconfigured, with an oil guiding plate designed to return oil scooped up by the crankshaft counterweights back to the deep section of the pan. 
==Conclusion==
While the RB26DETT engine of the GT-R Skyline is usually awarded kudos when Nissan's turbo engine line-up over the years is considered, the VG30DETT - with its variable valve timing and carefully tuned intake manifold system - is the more sophisticated of the two engines. (But isn't it amazing to consider that the one company developed - at the same time - two such brilliant twin turbo six cylinder engines?) At the end of the development the engineers said: "We are confident that this engine has achieved the utmost in power output together with high torque and high response worthy of a new generation sportscar." And lots of modifiers over the years have agreed with them... 
==Cutaway Views==
''Images of Z1 Motorsport's Front Clip Display'' [[File:4846578245_0d26a7da9e_b.jpg|frameless|alt=4846578245_0d26a7da9e_b.jpg]][[File:JOK_4607.jpg|frameless|alt=JOK_4607.jpg]]

[[Category:FAQs]][[Category:General Info]]

Upper Radiator Hose

2018-04-05T21:59:30Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Upper Radiator Hose''' carries coolant from the [[Upper Coolant Pipe|upper coolant pipe]] to the radiator. 
==Versions==
There are two versions of the upper radiator hose. The TT hose has a "zig-zag" shape to help it clear the throttle body intake hoses. 
{| class="wikitable"
! Non-Turbo 
! Twin-Turbo 
|-
|
[[File:2819l.jpg|frameless|alt=2819l.jpg]] 
|
[[File:2818l.jpg|frameless|alt=2818l.jpg]] 
|}
''Pictured are upgraded '''silicone''' versions, which will last much longer than stock versions. These are available from your friendly neighborhood parts vendor.'' 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Upper Fuel Gallery

2018-04-05T21:59:29Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Upper Fuel Gallery''' (sometimes called the '''Upper Fuel Rail''') is an assembly which consists of three hard lines welded together. Two of the hard lines carry fuel (to and from the fuel rail) and the third, smaller line, carries vacuum signal to the [[Fuel Pressure Regulator]]. The Upper Fuel Gallery should not be confused with the [[Fuel Rail]]. [[File:2504l.jpg|frameless|alt=2504l.jpg]] 
==Function==
The Upper Fuel Gallery provides a secure, stable passageway for fuel to travel from the fuel filter to the [[Fuel Dampener|fuel dampener]], and from the [[Fuel Pressure Regulator|fuel pressure regulator]] back to the edge of the engine bay, where another hard line carries excess fuel back to the fuel tank. 
==Removal==
Some advocate the removal of the Upper Fuel Gallery as a means to simplify the engine bay and reduce the number of clamped fuel lines (and thus, potential leaks). While this is most commonly done during the installation of aftermarket fuel rails (such as the 300Degree rail which has connectors at the back, instead of the top), many have removed the fuel gallery in the presence of an otherwise factory setup. Others argue, however, that while removal of the fuel gallery reduces the number of points for a potential leak, bypassing it with rubber hoses creates more danger by exposing rubber hoses to various points where they can "rub through" and cause a fuel leak. 

[[Category:Fuel System]][[Category:Parts]]

Twin Turbo Conversion

2018-04-05T21:59:27Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

A common topic among Z32 owners is that of converting their naturally aspirated model Z to a Twin Turbo. Aside from the obvious "moar powar," this is often done for any of the following reasons: 

* Chassis style not available in turbocharged trim in owner's region (2+2, Slicktop, and Convertible were all Naturally Aspirated in the US market)
* Investment in a car's interior, suspension, body that the owner wishes to retain.
* Sentimental attachment to a car.
A common misconception is that it's cheaper to convert your NA to a TT than it is to buy a TT outright. While this CAN be true (depending on the cost of cars, sources for parts, etc), the commonly accepted notion is that it's much cheaper to either buy a TT from the start, or sell an NA and pay the difference for the TT. That said, it should also be made clear that you generally cannot convert an NA to a TT. Rather, owners must swap their NA motors for a TT motor and associated parts. The NA motor uses a higher compression ratio (10.5:1 vs 8.5:1), weaker internals, more restrictive heads, and more, which simply makes it unsuitable for forced induction. It can and has been done, but at the end of the day, the TT motor was built for boost and the NA wasn't. Because of the sheer number and cost of parts that must be acquired for a complete TT conversion, it's common for owners to purchase a [[Front Clip|front clip]] from which parts can be used. However, a lot of parts end up being replaced or upgraded (turbos, intercoolers, piping, etc) so this is become less necessary as performance parts becoming cheaper and more readily available. 
===Parts Needed===
For a complete list of differences between NAs and TTs from the factory, see the article: [[NA-TT Differences]]. For discussion purposes, the parts needed to convert are... 

* Twin Turbo longblock and associated parts (oil pan, turbochargers, clutch & flywheel, etc).
* Oil Cooler
* TT Fuel Pump
* Intake piping, recirculation valves, and intercoolers
* Radiator, and (if desired) A/C condenser and associated piping.
In addition to the raw parts, there are a few slight modifications that must be performed as well: 

* Lower Radiator Brackets relocated to accommodate TT radiator (unless installing an upgraded radiator, in which case a Z1 Radiator Adapter Bracket can be used).
* Various trim and caps removed (to make way for intercooler piping, oil cooler bracket, etc)
* Unless using a TT transmission, the bellhousing needs to be machined to accommodate the larger flywheel) and the starter needs to be shimmed to place it further outwards.

===Timing===
TT swaps are often performed when an owner acquires a TT parts car (one, for example, which has been wrecked), when an NA motor fails or becomes severely damaged, or when someone has a lot of time and money to blow on a project. 
===JDM Tyte Motors===
Another common misconception in the import car community is that JDM motors create more power than USDM counterparts (this possibly stemming from the Honda scene, where this is often true), and that they are low-mileage, delicately used motors. Buying '''any''' used engine runs the risk of getting a lemon, and there is no reason to believe JDM motors are a better choice than a USDM engine. While it's true that JDM motors are often lower mileage than US counterparts, they're rarely as low as sellers claim (40K? get real, it's a 20 year old car). Perhaps the most telling piece of information about JDM motors involves the government's regulation over maintaining a vehicle. Cars must be regularly inspected, and the inspection informs owners of any problems, cost to repair and maintain, etc. Because owners are taxed on a car's mileage (for emissions reasons) and are required to keep their vehicles safe and road-legal, it becomes costly to own and maintain a car as the miles rack up. The culture in Japan is that a car will likely be replaced within a few years, and therefore maintenance is often sporadic and neglectful. At the very least (and, again, this is true for all used motors), buyers should perform a dry and wet compression test and perform a 120k maintenance job. 

[[Category:Turbo System]][[Category:FAQs]]

Updates

2018-04-05T21:59:27Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block">
==2/12/2018 Wikispaces & The Future==
Can you believe it's been 6 years since I've posted an update on here? Happily, there hasn't been much to add, as I feel the Wiki is largely complete, though I have been making slight tweaks and changes here and there. The Z32 Wiki currently sees about 1,000 views per day, most of which are unique visitors (that is, they're not the same people going to the site over and over again, but rather different people accessing the site). I use certain pages daily, for work, like the [[Drive Belt|Belt Guide]], and it's satisfying to see people reference the wiki and pages on here to this day. Now, you probably saw the banner on the top of the page put there by Wikispaces, and yes, they are shutting down completely. However, '''the Z32 Wiki will not be shutting down''' outright. I will be moving the entire Wiki to our server at Concept Z Performance and re-hosting it there. The CZP server has more than enough space and virtually unlimited bandwidth, and actually has much better uptime than Wikispaces does anyway. Once this transition happens, I will update this page to direct users to the new version, though I will most likely be leaving the Wikispaces version in place until Wikispaces themselves shuts down. The Wiki will still remain a non-biased, non-commercialized site. It was my own pet project long before my employment at CZP, and that isn't going to change. I greatly appreciate all of those who have come forward to offer mirroring and hosting services for the Wiki, provide mirrors, etc. It means a lot to me, really. Thank you all for supporting and sharing the Wiki!

Updates Archive

2018-04-05T21:59:27Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block">
==12/12/11: A note on Membership==
Hey guys, I just wanted to point something out about how membership works on this wiki. When you request to "join" this wiki, it's not like joining a forum, where you need membership to gain access to pictures or posts. Requesting membership on this wiki is requesting to become an '''organizer''', as in, someone who edits and adds to this wiki. I generally accept all requests (with few exceptions), but I just wanted to let everyone know that it's really not necessary to join this wiki if all you're after is the information contained within. All pages are visible by ANYONE, no logins required. So if you're just looking for help with your car, I appreciate your enthusiasm, but you won't gain anything by registering! 
==9/23/11: Some statistics~==
I thought you guys might be interested in seeing some statistics for this wiki lately. Top 15 pages by pageviews (August numbers): [[Vacuum Diagrams]] - 215 [[Boost Controller]] - 240 [[Wastegate]] - 215 [[ECU Diagnostics]] - 205 [[Chassis Differences]] - 197 [[Cylinder Head]] - 187 [[Ignition Timing]] - 182 [[Fuel Pressure Regulator]] - 179 [[Fuel Pump]] - 178 [[Air Conditioning System]] - 167 I can see where your priorities are... boost controller and wastegate above ECU diagnostics and well above air conditioning ;) Additionally, the wiki is seeing about 100-150 '''unique''' visitors per day, sometimes spiking as high as 400 unique visitors, with about 300 pageviews a day. This basically means most people hop over here, find the article they're looking for, and leave. Is that a good thing? I dunno. Finally, the top four countries visiting are: United States - 73% Canada - 7% Great Britain - 4% Australia - 4% The remaining 12% being made up of dozens of countries, each carrying a percentage under 1%. Of course I don't make any money off the wiki or anything, but it's good to know you guys are using it! Feel free to click Discussion on the left if you have any suggestions!

==8/2/11: Air Conditioning!!!==
It's been a while since I've posted any updates, but I've been chugging along on the wiki working on new content! The biggest of which is the new and complete [[Air Conditioning System]] section. We've also been given our own [http://www.projectz32.com/site/forum/viewforum.php?f=50 forum] over at ProjectZ32, which can be used to discuss suggestions, error corrections, etc. Finally, I updated the [[Page Guidelines|page guidelines]] article, making it into a comprehensive guide to organizing and editing this wiki for aspiring organizers <3. 
==6/22/11: Ready for Summer?==
It's getting quite hot lately. It was 113°F here in Tempe, today. But don't let that stop you from enjoying the Z32! Learn all about keeping your engine nice and cool in the new, comprehensive Cooling System section and get under your hood to get things perfect!...preferably in a spot of shade! 
==6/17/11: Buzz Buzz==
I've added a bunch more content, mostly regarding the [[Intake Manifold Removal|removal of the intake manifold]] and its associated jobs. As you may have noticed (if you've been here before), the front page also received a slight redesign, which brought on some new articles like the [[Buyer's Guide]]. Oh yeah, and the entire wiki got a minor face-lift. Mostly just some different colors, in addition to the new banner... did I mention I love doing pixel art? 
==6/7/11: More Articles==
I've been busy adding content! Check out some of the pages regarding [[Camshaft|Camshafts]] and [[Variable Timing Control]], for a few. There are a few more ([[Category:Fuel System]] etc) and some minor changes to various pages, too. 
==6/1/11: Revised Categories Lists==
I've added [[Categories]] pages which automagically lists all articles to their respective topics. These dedicated pages allow you to view all [[Category:How-To Guides]], or all articles about the [[Category:Fuel System]], for example. When viewing an article, there will also be a "Related Articles" section at the bottom with links to categories the article falls in, allowing you to "dig through" the wiki in that classic free-time-sucking Wikipedia style. -Stadsport

Upper Coolant Pipe

2018-04-05T21:59:27Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Upper Coolant Pipe''' is an aluminum hard pipe which carries coolant from the engine block to the [[Radiator|radiator]] (via the [[Upper Radiator Hose|upper radiator hose]]). 
[[File:UpperCoolantPipe.png|alt=UpperCoolantPipe.png|thumb|The upper coolant pipe with both coolant temp sensors. Viewed from the engine-side.]]
 
==Function==
The Upper Coolant Pipe carries water from the heads (the two ports on either side) and the thermostat housing to the radiator. It also contains ports for the two [[Coolant Temp Sensor|coolant temp sensors]]. The main outlet port is 52mm in diameter. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Turbo Exhaust Outlet Pipes

2018-04-05T21:59:25Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block"> See article: [[Downpipes]].

Turbocharger

2018-04-05T21:59:25Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

A '''Turbocharger''' is a device that, using exhaust gas as a means of propulsion, creates positive pressure in the intake manifold. This drastically improves performance. 
[[File:tb22.jpg|alt=tb22.jpg|thumb|A set of stock Z32 turbochargers.]]
 
==Operation==
[[File:Turbocharger.jpg|alt=Turbocharger.jpg|thumb|Image credit: Wikipedia.]]
 Turbochargers consist of three basic components: 

* The exhaust housing (red) and its turbine.
* The compressor housing (blue) and its impeller.
* The center housing & rotating assembly (CHRA, the yellow-green section in the center).
As exhaust gas flows through the exhaust housing, it spins the turbine before exiting, which in turn spins the impeller in the compressor housing. The impeller then sucks in air (through the opening in the center), expelling it through the outlet on the side of the housing. This air is then fed to the [[Intake Manifold|intake manifold]] of the engine, and into the cylinders. This forces in a greater amount of air than the engine would naturally inhale through the motion of his pistons--thus, defining the difference between a '''naturally aspirated''' engine, and one utilizing '''forced induction'''. The added air (called '''boost''') creates higher pressure in the combustion chamber, leading to a stronger combustion and greater power output. 
==On the Z32==
===Gaskets & Accessories===

===Parallel Twin Turbocharging===
The Z32, in Twin Turbo form, utilizes two turbochargers manufactured by Garrett. They are installed in a '''parallel twin turbo''' arrangement. This means that each turbo is fed by (and feeds) three cylinders; one half of the engine. Because each turbocharger only has to provide boost for three cylinders, they can be made much smaller than if used in a single-turbo setup. The smaller size allows them to accelerate (or '''spool up''') much more quickly than one large turbo, providing faster response. The parallel twin turbo setup is in contrast to a '''sequential twin turbo''' setup, such as that utilized by the Toyota Supra. In such a setup, one small turbo is used at the lower speeds, and the system gradually switches to a large turbo for the top-end. 
===Specifications===
Stock Z32 TT turbos are '''Garrett TB02/22''' turbos. They carry the following specifications: 
{| class="wikitable"
| style="text-align: center" colspan="5" | Compressor 
| style="text-align: center" colspan="4" | Turbine 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Wheel Trim 
| style="text-align: center" | Inducer Diameter 
| style="text-align: center" | Exducer Diameter 
| style="text-align: center" | Housing 
| style="text-align: center" | CFM 
| style="text-align: center" | Wheel (Trim) 
| style="text-align: center" | Exducer Diameter 
| style="text-align: center" | Inducer Diameter 
| style="text-align: center" | Flange Style 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | T2 
| style="text-align: center" | 40mm 
| style="text-align: center" | 51mm 
| style="text-align: center" | TB22 
| style="text-align: center" | 304 (Max) 
| style="text-align: center" | T22 (69) 
| style="text-align: center" | 38.9mm 
| style="text-align: center" | 47mm 
| style="text-align: center" | T25 
|}

* These turbos use a 270 degree thrust bearings (journal bearings) in the CHRA.
* [[Cooling System|Water cooling]] is used for longevity.
* Internal Wastegates are used for compactness.
* M/T cars had turbos with an A/R trim of .63. A/T cars, .54.
* Left and Right turbos are interchangeable, but will require re-clocking and swapping of its associated components (coolant pipes, oil pipes, intake/outlet pipes, wastegate actuator brackets, etc).
 Stock turbochargers are known for their quick spool-up, but are limited to around 16 PSI of boost before they become inefficient. Despite this, stock turbochargers have made close to 500 HP ([http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=441 link]) on a stock engine. 
===Compressor Map===
[[File:compressormap.gif|frameless|alt=compressormap.gif]] ''Thanks, Vedran M! The Japanese text simply says "Nissan Genuine Parts."'' 
==Upgrades==
There is a wide variety of turbocharger upgrades available for the Z32 to fit practically every need. A few notable examples are... 

* JWT Sport 500s. Modified stock turbos, old tech but still decent.
* JWT Sport 530BBs. Ball-bearing, just slightly larger than stock, but offering VERY quick spool-up and higher top-end.
* Garrett GT 2860 RS (Sport 700s). Ball bearing, much larger and provides boost for upwards of 700 HP.
* Garrett GT 3071 and 3076. The largest turbos that can be fit in a Z without major modification.

==Replacement==
While the [[Factory Service Manual]] details how to replace turbochargers with the engine in the car (EM-38), the general consensus is that it's much easier to remove the motor. The added benefit is that pulling the motor allows the owner to complete many other tasks that are probably a necessity by the time the turbos need to be replaced or upgraded. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Turbo System]]

Transmission

2018-04-05T21:59:18Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

A '''transmission''' or '''gearbox''' is a large assembly used for transmitting torque and power from the engine to the driveshaft and thus, the wheels of a vehicle. Transmissions often have multiple gears of different ratios, and switching through these gears can be done manually or automatically. Different gear ratios allow internal combustion engines, which work in a relatively limited range of speed (for example, 750rpm to 7000rpm) to provide power for a multitude of applications, like driving slowly up a steep hill, or very fast on a flat highway. 
===On the Z32===
The Z32's manual transmission (known as the '''RS5R30A''') was a 5-speed with double-cone synchronizers. The automatic (RE4R01A on the NA, RE4R03A on the TT) was a 4-speed. The manual transmission had the following gear ratios: 

* 1st: 3.214
* 2nd: 1.925
* 3rd: 1.302
* 4th: 1.000
* 5th: 0.752
* Rev: 2.275
 The automatic transmission had the following gear ratios: 

* 1st: 2.784
* 2nd: 1.544
* 3rd: 1.000
* 4th: 0.694
* Rev: 2.275

===Problems===
Both of the Z32 transmissions are very strong, but not without their faults. The automatic transmission tends to slip at higher power levels, but can be built to handle higher power and shift quicker. The manual transmission, while being virtually indestructible, is notorious for having a "soft synchro" problem. Over years of drivers aggressively "slamming it into gear," the synchronizers tend to wear and become difficult (and noisy) to put into gear. This is most commonly apparent with 2nd and 4th gears, but can happen to other gears as well. The Japan-only 1998 Z32 was given an updated transmission, which had stronger synchronizers due to complaints about the soft synchro issue. It is a common, bolt-in upgrade for earlier Zs. 

[[Category:Parts]]

Transmission Shifter Striker

2018-04-05T21:59:18Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''striker rod''' or '''striking rod''' is part of the transmission that connects the shift linkage to the gearbox. This is the part that transfers movement from the shift knob into the transmission when you select the gear. It is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace (with the transmission out) should yours be damaged or worn. [[File:2664l.jpg|frameless|alt=2664l.jpg]]
==Replacement==
Should your striking rod become damaged (often during shipping transmissions) or otherwise worn out, it's a pretty easy part to replace once your transmission is out.
==Items Needed==
[[File:IMG_20141208_151428.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_151428.jpg]] 

* 1x Striking Rod (Nissan p/n 32890-33P05)
* A couple metal punches
* A mallet and/or a ball-peen hammer
* Shop rags and towels
* 10mm socket and ratcher
* Needle nose pliers
==Procedure==

# Pop off the cover, it's just 6x 10mm bolts. [[File:IMG_20141208_151655.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_151655.jpg]]
# Run a shop rag under the pin for the striking rod. The pin will be pushed out the back, so make sure it's not so tight it will push through the other side. [[File:IMG_20141208_152024.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152024.jpg]]
# Set a punch on top of the pin, and hammer it out. Be careful as you go through. Again, you don't want it to tear through your rag and get lost in the transmission. make sure to use a punch large enough to move both the inner and outer pins at the same time. Otherwise, you will damage the pins. [[File:IMG_20141208_152039.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152039.jpg]] [[File:IMG_20141208_152142.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152142.jpg]]
# Pull back the boot on the striker rod. [[File:IMG_20141208_152209.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152209.jpg]]
# Twist and pull until the striker rod comes out. Sometimes you can do this with one hand, other times you're literally picking up the transmission by the striker rod and shaking it. Just luck of the draw. [[File:IMG_20141208_152250.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152250.jpg]]
# Get your new striker rod out. If it has a notch (not all do), the notch should point down (towards the ground once installed). [[File:IMG_20141208_152415.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152415.jpg]]
# Twist and push to install the new striker rod. [[File:IMG_20141208_152533.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152533.jpg]]
# Hammer the new pin in. It should sink in just past being flush (so you may need to use your punch for one or two taps). [[File:IMG_20141208_152721.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_152721.jpg]]
# Reinstall the cover plate.Put the boot back over the lip on the new striker, twist it through the different gears to make sure it moves like it should. [[File:IMG_20141208_153407.jpg|frameless|alt=IMG_20141208_153407.jpg]]

[[Category:How-To Guides]][[Category:Parts]][[Category:Drivetrain]]

Timing Belt Service

2018-04-05T21:59:07Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Timing Belt Service''' (often called the '''120k''' or '''60k''' service) is perhaps the most vital and significant maintenance job for the Z32. Because the VG30DE(TT) is an [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_engine interference engine], maintaining the timing belt system is essential. Should the timing belt or one of its related components fail, it is extremely likely that major engine components (pistons and valves, specifically) will be destroyed as they collide with one another. Because of the complexity of this job, it can also be expensive to have it done at a shop. However, it can be performed by a competent shadetree mechanic. But if you're not up to completing this job, just remember, $500 parts and $600 in labor is cheaper than replacing and/or rebuilding the engine. ''Images and info presented below are combinations of original work, from rockchucker's [http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=203159 many] [http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=203123 revival threads] and TTZD's [http://www.ttzd.com/tech/timingbelt/timingbelt.html Writeup].'' 
[[File:3849l1.jpg|alt=3849l1.jpg|thumb|A 120K Service Kit from CZP.]]
 
[[File:93_FSM_EM_Timing_belt_large_illustration.png|alt=93_FSM_EM_Timing_belt_large_illustration.png|thumb|Large illustration with torque values. Source: 1993 Nissan 300ZX FSM: EM-12. Click for full size.]]
 
==Parts Needed==
There are actually two forms of the Timing Belt service: the 60,000 mile timing belt replacement and the 120,000 mile replacement. The [[Factory Service Manual|FSM]] recommends replacing the belt every 60k or 48 months, whichever comes first. Because the related components (like the idler pulleys) are so vital in maintaining engine health, it's highly recommended to just do a '''complete''' 120k service instead of the basic 60k. Other components, like the water pump and thermostat, are not necessary to maintaining timing belt functionality obviously. However, replacing these components is most easily performed while the engine is dismantled for the timing belt service, so it's the perfect time to replace them.
==60,000 Mile Service==

* Timing Belt
* Tensioner
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Coolant Bypass Hoses
* Camshaft Seals
* Crankshaft Seal

==120,000 Mile Service==

* Everything included in the 60,000 Mile Service above.
* Upper Idler Pulley
* Lower Idler Pulley
* Idler Studs

==Additional Parts==
There are a few optional components often included with either/both of the above kits. 

* VTC Springs & O-Rings
** There is much debate circulating the validity in VTC Springs failing. For more information about how VTC works, see the [[Variable Timing Control|main article]]. The O-rings should generally be replaced, as you'll need to remove the covers to get the cam gear off, and the O-Rings are usually squished.
* Crank Sprocket Spacers
** These are included with some kits, but often don't need to be replaced unless they're lost or damage.
* Crank Pulley/Sprocket Woodruff Keys
** These don't explicitly need to be replaced, but are often lost during the service.
* Crank Sprocket
** The crank sprocket is often stuck on the crankshaft pretty hard. A common method to remove it is to chisel it off with an air hammer.
* RameyZ Idler Studs
** Some owners have experienced failure of stock idler studs. RameyZ sells heavy duty idler studs to prevent failure.
Finally, it is highly recommended that '''all''' parts in this job are replaced with Nissan OEM parts. The only exceptions being the RameyZ idler studs and, optionally, a Gates/GReddy High Strength Timing Belt.
==Tools Needed==

* Usual assortment of metric sockets and wrenches.
* 27mm socket for crank pulley.
* 5mm and 6mm hex/alan key sockets.
* A fish scale (or push-pull gauge) helps tremendously with setting the belt.
* Pulley pullers
* Plastic faced mallet
* Thin strip of lexan/plastic
* Pry bar
* Seal puller (optional)
* Impact tools (optional; highly recommended for automatic transmission vehicles)

==Procedure==
==Radiator & Belts==
===Radiator===

# [[Jacking Up The Z|Jack up]] and support the front of the vehicle if necessary to remove shields and fit a radiator drain pan underneath.
# Drain coolant from radiator. Don't forget to remove the radiator cap to allow all the coolant to escape
# For Twin Turbo models, remove the throttle body intake hoses/pipes. Be sure to block the intercooler outlets with rags to prevent foreign debris from falling in. [[File:tbelt0031.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0031.jpg]]
# If your PTU is still in the stock location, remove it and clip the zip ties holding the harness to the upper water pipe.
# Remove the upper radiator hose.
# Remove the lower radiator hose.
# Remove 2x 10mm bolts securing the upper radiator brackets to the chassis (green dot). [[File:tbelt0011.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0011.jpg]]
# Remove the lower radiator shroud (3 clips).
# Remove the radiator from the vehicle. On TT models, you'll have to wiggle it a bit to clear the intercooler piping.
#* Don't loose the little rubber insulators that the radiator sits in!
===Belts===

# Remove the 4x 10mm bolts securing the fan clutch to the water pump pulley.
# Carefully remove the fan clutch. There will be tension on the belt, so the pulley will try to move a bit, but it shouldn't pop off.
# Loosen the lock nut (12mm on the tensioner arm) and lock nut (14mm through the pulley holes) on the power steering pump.
#* The PS pump can be tough to move. You may also have to loosen the 2x 12mm bolts securing the bracket to the block.
#* You may have to use a pry bar to move the power steering pump inward.
# Loosen the power steering pump tensioner adjustment 12mm bolt, pushing the pump inward as you go along, to relieve tension on the belt.
# Loosen the lock nut (12mm on the tensioner) of the A/C tensioner, which is just below the [[AC Compressor|A/C compressor]].
# Loosen the A/C compressor tensioner adjustment bolt (accessible from the underside) to relieve tension on the belt.
# Loosen the lock nut (12mm on the tensioner) of the alternator adjustment bracket.
# Loosen the 12mm adjustment bolt on the alternator tensioner to relieve tension on the belt.
# Remove all three accessory belts.

==Water Pipes==

# If you have not already done so, remove the PTU from it's stock location.
# Disconnect both [[Coolant Temp Sensor|coolant temperature sensors]], and pull the harness away from the pipes completely. [[File:DSC070401.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC070401.jpg]]
# Move your coolant bucket to the front of the engine.
# Remove the [[Lower Coolant Pipe|lower coolant pipe]] (2x 12mm nuts, 1x 6mm hex head). [[File:tbelt017.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt017.jpg]]
# Use some long pliers to squeeze the clamps on the [[Coolant Bypass Tubes|coolant bypass tubes]] and move them towards the engine, off the upper coolant pipe.
# Remove the [[Upper Coolant Pipe|upper coolant pipe]] (3x 6mm hex heads).
# Remove the [[Thermostat|thermostat]] from its [[Thermostat Housing|housing]]. [[File:tbelt0191.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0191.jpg]]
# Completely remove the coolant bypass hoses.

==Crank Pulley==
The Crank Pulley can be a little tough to remove, but of course it's not impossible. [[File:tbelt1081.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt1081.jpg]]
===Manual Transmission===

# If the vehicle is in the air, lower it so all four wheels are resting on the ground.
# Put the transmission in 5th gear and set the parking brake hard.
# Loosen the 27mm bolt securing the crank pulley to the crank shaft.
## If you have a breaker bar or a low-profile impact wrench, now is the time to use it.
# Don't fully remove the bolt, as your pulley puller will need to press against it.

===Automatic Transmission===

# If you have a low-profile impact wrench, use that to loosen the 27mm bolt securing the crank pulley to the crank shaft. You can then skip to the next section.
# Otherwise, remove the starter motor and use a screwdriver or flywheel stop tool to prevent the flex plate from rotating.
# Loosen the 27mm bolt securing the crank pulley to the crank shaft.

===Pulley Removal===
Once you have the pulley's bolt loosened, you can remove the pulley itself. [[File:pulley211.jpg|frameless|alt=pulley211.jpg]] 

# Attach a jaw puller to the crank pulley, so the jaw is grasping the large part of the pulley (not the front part). Let the dimple in the bolt be the resting spot for the jaw puller's drive bolt.
# Slowly tighten the jaw puller's drive bolt the draw the pulley off the crankshaft.
# Periodically relieve tension on the pulley before pulling on it more. It is made of two pieces with a rubber coupler to dampen vibration, and pulling it off in one shot can damage or even separate the rubber coupler.
Alternatively, you can use a threaded puller (ie a steering wheel puller) to remove the pulley, as it has two threaded holes in the front. '''Be careful not to drop the pulley. It's a friggin' boat anchor!'''
==Timing Belt Covers & Water Pump==

# Remove the driver's side timing belt cover (3x 8mm Philips, 5x 5mm hex bolts). They are a variety of different lengths and styles, so try to keep them in order!
# Remove the passenger's side timing belt cover (2x 8mm Philips, 5x 5mm hex bolts). They are a variety of different lengths and styles, so try to keep them in order.
# Remove the lower timing belt cover (6x 8mm Philips). [[File:DSC07061.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC07061.jpg]]
# If they didn't come off with the upper covers, remove the spacer studs (2x 17mm).
# Remove the water pump (6x 12mm).

==Timing Belt Removal==
Now that you have easy access to all the timing components, we can get into the nitty gritty. 

# Re-install the crank pulley bolt by hand so you can use the 27mm socket + a ratchet to rotate the engine. You will only be able to rotate the engine clockwise.
# Put the transmission in neutral. Rotate the engine (via the crank bolt) clockwise until the dimples on the crank sprockets align with the dimples on the rear timing belt covers, and the line on crank pulley aligns with 0 degrees.
#* The sprocket marks will not align perfectly; these dimples are for reference at this step only. This is simply to get the engine approximately at top dead center.
#* If you set the engine at approximately 10 degrees BEFORE top fead center (BTDC), it will leave the cams in a slightly more neutral position, so they will be less likely to recoil to one side when the belt is removed.
# Take a 10mm bolt from the fan and thread it into the tab on the auto tensioner. As you tighten it, it will compress the piston and relieve tension from the belt. Insert it just enough to begin relieving tension on the belt; you don't want to fully loosen the belt with this.
#* Tighten this bolt VERY SLOWLY. If you go too fast, it will break that tab off like it wasn't even there.
# There are two bolts with a nut between them securing the tensioner to the block. Start by loosening the two bolts, then very slowly loosen the nut in the center. As it loosens, the tensioner will shift and the belt will lose it's tension.
# Remove the auto-tensioner.
# Carefully remove the belt. The sprockets may try to violently snap to either position, but as long as the engine is set near TDC (as it should be), no damage should be incurred.
# Remove the upper and lower idler pulleys (1x 12mm nut on each one).

==Water Pump Installation==

# Clean up the mating surface for the water pump. Be careful not to gouge the mating surface; a little wire brush will clean it right up without doing any damage.
# Double-nut the new water pump studs into place on the pulley mount. Use a bit of thread locker to prevent them from backing out. [[File:DSC05828.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05828.jpg]]
# Apply a thin bead of gasket maket to the slot in the new water pump. [[File:DSC05830.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05830.jpg]]
# Install the new water pump (6x 12mm). The "stud" goes in the furthest right hole. [[File:tbelt0201.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0201.jpg]]
# Tighten bolts to 12-15 ft-lbs.

==Sprocket Removal==
The following steps will require you use the old timing belt to secure the position of the cam gears while you loosen the bolts. Everyone has their own way of doing this, but pictures of some recommended ways are provided.
===Intake Cams===
{| class="wikitable"
|
[[File:tbelt1211.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt1211.jpg]] 
|
[[File:tbelt1221.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt1221.jpg]] 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Passenger Side 
| style="text-align: center" | Driver Side 
|}

# Remove the bolts securing the VTC cover to the intake cam gears (4x Philips, 7mm)
#* Remove these slowly and carefully, as there will be a spring behind them desperately trying to escape.
#* Be sure not to lose the O-rings, though they should be replaced anyways.[[File:tbelt0261.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0261.jpg]]
# Remove the bolt securing the gear to the cam (1x 19mm). You can use the belt-wrap technique to hold the gear in place while you remove it.
# Remove the gear.
# Repeat for the opposite side.

===Exhaust Cams===
{| class="wikitable"
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:tbelt1271.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt1271.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:tbelt1231.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt1231.jpg]] 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Passenger Side 
| style="text-align: center" | Driver Side 
|}

# Remove the CAS from it's bracket (3x 10mm). Feel free to mark its position to make reinstallation a bit smoother.
#* Don't leave the CAS attached to its bracket and remove the bracket. The bracket often comes out in an awkward jerking motion, and this can break the alignment pin on the CAS or the exhaust cam. Further, installing the CAS is a lot easier when it's not attached to the bracket, since you have more freedom of movement to line it up.
# Remove the CAS bracket from the head (3x 12mm). [[File:tbelt0221.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0221.jpg]]
# Remove the bolts securing the sprocket to the cam (4x 11mm). You can use the belt-wrap technique to hold the gear in place while you loosen the bolts.
# Remove the sprocket.
# Repeat for the opposite side.
==Rear Timing Belt Covers==

# If you have not already done so, remove the two studs on the rear timing belt covers (2x 17mm)
# If you have not already done so, remove the two idlers (2x 14mm)
# Remove the two idler studs if they are to be replaced (highly recommended). If necessary, this can be done by doubling up two nuts onto each stud, tightening them against each other, and then using the inner one to remove the stud.
# Remove the passenger side rear timing belt cover (4x 10mm).
# Remove the driver's side rear timing belt cover (4x 10mm).

==Cam and Seals==
===Removal===

# Remove the cam seals by carefully prying them with a punch of small flathead.
# Lightly tap the tool into the area between the cam seal and the housing/head.
# Gently pry out a bit, then pull the tool out and move it over to a different spot on the cam seal. [[File:tbelt0301.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0301.jpg]]
# Work your way around the cam seal until it breaks free.
# Be extremely careful not to scratch the cam. Doing so will result in a leak that is NOT easy to repair. Use the utmost caution and be extremely careful when pulling the seals.
# Repeat these steps for all four cam seals.
===Installation===

# Apply a bit of oil to the new seals.
# Put the new seals into position and gently push them into place.
# To get them to seat all the way, take one of the old seals and "stack it" against the new seal. Use a plastic-headed mallet to tap the new seal into place. [[File:tbelt0311.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0311.jpg]]
# It will fully seat into place and the face of it should be approximately flush with its housing.

==Crank Sprocket and Seal==
===Removal===
[[File:tbelt0361.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0361.jpg]] 

# Remove the crank sprocket washer if it's still on.
# Try to pull the crank sprocket off
#* You can try to pry it off, but don't put pressure against the oil pump. The oil pump housing is very thin cast aluminum and it WILL crack and put you in a world of pain.
# If you can't directly pull the sprocket off, you'll have to cut it off. Use an air chisel and "aim" for the woodruff key.
## Try to avoid letting the chisel reach the crankshaft itself, you don't want it to damage anything but the crank sprocket.
# Once the sprocket is split, hammer a chisel into the slot to spread it open a bit. It will then come off pretty easily.
# Remove the woodruff key if it's damaged.
# Remove the rear timing belt washer.
# Remove the crank seal in the same manner the cam seals are removed. It's a little more difficult to remove because of its position and proximity to the oil pump, but the idea is the same.
# DO NOT scratch the crankshaft. Fuck you if you do.

===Installation===

# The crank seal is a bit more difficult to install than the cam seals, because there's a lip on the crankshaft that it needs to go over.
# The best solution to this is to use a thin piece of lexan or plastic, approximately 4.5" x 3". Wrap it around the crankshaft to create a ramp for the seal.
# Apply some oil to the plastic "ramp" and slide the seal into position.
# Like the cam seals, you can double it up with the old seal (even a cam seal; they're the same part) and tap it in. It may help to use a piece of wood due to its proximity to the oil pump.
# Make sure the seal is evenly inserted all the way around (you may have to use an inspection mirror to make sure).
# Remove the plastic ramp.
# Install the washer & the crank sprocket over the woodruff keys on the crank shaft. The flat washer goes on the back side of the sprocket. If the lower belt cover loops around the crank, then a second flat washer goes on the front of the sprocket. If the lower belt cover doesn't loop around the crank, the bevel edged washer goes on the front with the bevel facing the rear to make the belt fall back onto the sprocket if it were to come forward.
# Install a new woodruff key if necessary. Use some pliers to squeeze it into it's slot-- lube doesn't hurt, and use a thick cloth to prevent the pliers from damaging the crank. If possible, set the woodruff key at a slight incline to aide with installation of the crank sprocket.
# [[File:DSC05812.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05812.jpg]]
# Slide the sprocket into place. You may have to tap it on over the woodruff key, but only do so once you've verified that it's properly aligned on the key.
==Rear Covers & Cam Sprockets==

# Install the driver side rear timing belt cover (4x 10mm)
# Install the passenger side rear timing belt cover (4x 10mm) [[File:DSC05824.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05824.jpg]]

===Cam Sprockets===

# Install the exhaust cam sprockets onto the camshafts.
# Tighten the exhaust cam sprocket bolts (8x 11mm). Torque to 10-14 ft-lbs. Use the belt-wrap technique as necessary.
# Be sure the mating surfaces are clean and install the intake cam sprockets.
# Tighten the intake cam bolts (2x 19mm) to 90-95 ft-lbs. Use the belt-wrap technique as necessary. [[File:DSC05845.jpg|alt=DSC05845.jpg|thumb|Man, I wish I had one of these.]]
# Install the VTC Springs, VTC O-Rings (which should be replaced at this time), and covers.
#* Apply a small amount of oil to the O-Rings during installation.
# Tighten VTC cover screws (8x Philips, 7mm) to a slight but significant 1.1 to 1.8 ft-lbs.

==Idlers and Tensioner==
===Idlers===

# If you're replacing the tensioner studs (again, highly recommended), go ahead and install the new studs now. You can use the same double-nut method if necessary.
# Install the new upper and lower idlers.
# Tighten the idler nuts to 32-43 ft-lbs.

===Tensioner===

# Verify that the gap of the tensioner is at 4mm. If not, use a vice to close the gap, then install the stopper bolt to prevent it from opening up.
# If a vice is not available, the gap can be closed/opened by VERY SLOWLY turning the stopper bolt. If you do it too fast, it WILL break off the stopper bolt's tab. [[File:tbelt0571.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0571.jpg]]
# Install the tensioner on the stud and tighten the nut slightly by hand.

==Setting the Timing Belt==
It is of the utmost importance that the timing belt is installed correctly. It is absolutely essential in the performance and longevity of the engine, so please pay careful attention to these steps. 

# Start positioning the belt marks on the appropriate sprocket teeth beginning with the crank sprocket. Stick a screwdriver/pry bar between the belt & the oil pump shielding to hold the belt in place. Pull the belt and line the marks on the exhaust cam sprocket up on the driver's side, then the intake cam sprocket next to it & so on. If the sprockets are not close to the right area to land the marks on, wrap the old timing belt around the sprocket and rotate it until it's close enough to 'capture' under the mark. The dots on the back metal covers are for reference only at this point, same with the notch in the oil pump. All 15 indications will never line up perfectly. The only thing that matters are the lines on the belt and the marks on the sprockets lining up properly. [[File:DSC05853.jpg|alt=DSC05853.jpg|thumb|It's a good idea to use a white pen to highlight the markings.]]
# The dotted line on the belt lines up at the passenger side exhaust cam.
# Remember, the most important thing is that the lines on the belt correctly line up with the marks on the cam gears. The dimples on the rear timing belt covers are for vague reference ONLY.
{| class="wikitable"
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:DSC05863.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05863.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:DSC05862.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05862.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:DSC05861.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05861.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:DSC05860.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05860.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:DSC05858.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05858.jpg]] 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Passenger Exhaust 
| style="text-align: center" | Passenger Intake 
| style="text-align: center" | Driver Intake 
| style="text-align: center" | Driver Exhaust 
| style="text-align: center" | Crankshaft 
|}
''Click images for full-size views. Will open in a new window or tab.''
==Tensioning the Belt==

# Use a pry bar to push the tensioner inwards so you can get the two outer bolts started.
# Tighten those two bolts slightly by hand.
# Use your prybar to put tension on the belt, but not too tight--just to keep it from slipping.
# Rotate the timing belt clockwise approximately 10 degrees while holding tension on the belt. A helper is a good idea here.
# Tighten tensioner bolts and nut to 12-15 ft-lbs.
# Turn crankshaft counterclockwise 120 degrees (removing the spark plugs helps with this if possible).
# Turn crankshaft clockwise and set cylinder 1 to TDC (the marks on the cam sprockets should approximately line up with those on the rear timing belt covers.
# Loosen nut and bolts.
# Push the end of the tensioner piston with approximately 15.2 to 18.3 lbs of force.
# Tighten nut and bolts to 12-15 ft-lbs.
# Turn crankshaft 120 degrees clockwise.
# Turn crankshaft 120 degrees counter-clockwise.
# Remove the tensioner stopper bolt.
# After 5 minutes, check the gap in the tensioner. It should be between 3.5mm to 5.2mm. [[File:DSC05871.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05871.jpg]]
# Rotate the engine at least 720 degrees (two times) to ensure it rotates and the gap on the tensioner does not change.

==Timing Covers==
===Lower===

# Install the lower timing belt cover.
# Snug the bolts down (6x 8mm). The short bolt goes in the top hole on the right side.

===Passenger Side===

# Install the spacer stud (17mm)
# Install the passenger timing belt cover
# Snug the bolts down (2x Philips/8 mm, 5x 5 mm hex head, the lower middle is shorter bolt).

===Driver Side===

# Install the crank angle sensor bracket. Tighten bolts to 12-15 ft-lbs.
# Install the crank angle sensor, aligning it to your markings early. Tighten bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs.
# Install spacer stud (17mm)
# Install the driver's side timing belt cover.
# Snug the bolts down (3x Pillips/8 mm, 5x 5 mm hex head)
==Coolant Pipes==
===Thermostat===

# Place the new thermostat into position. It should sit with the rim of it flush with the mating surface.
# The jiggle valve should be at the top (12 'o clock position).
# Apply a thin bead of gasket maker to the mating surface of the lower coolant pipe. [[File:tbelt0851.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt0851.jpg]]
# Install the lower coolant pipe.
# Tighten nut and bolts (2x 12mm, 1x 6mm hex) to 12-15 ft-lbs.
===Lower Coolant Pipe===

# Clean the mating surfaces for both upper and lower coolant pipes. Be careful not to scratch the surfaces; just use a wire brush to remove the old gasket.
# If you're replacing the coolant bypass hose mounting pipes, you will also have to clean off their mating surfaces.
## Install the new pipes with a thin bead of gasket maker.
## Bolts should be made snug, but do not need to be exessively tight. Remember that they're going into aluminum.
# Install the two new coolant bypass hoses. Clamp the engine side on fully.
# Install the front clamps for the coolant bypass hoses, but push them back so the water pipe can be inserted.
# Apply a thin bead of gasket maker to the upper coolant pipe's mating surface.
# Install the upper coolant pipe. [[File:DSC05877.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05877.jpg]]
# Torque bolts to 12-15 ft-lbs.
# Place clamps into position. Make the left one point down, and the right one point to the bottom-right. [[File:tbelt1301.jpg|frameless|alt=tbelt1301.jpg]]
 
==Crank Pulley and Accessory Belts==
===Crank Pulley===

# If you have not already done so, install the front timing belt washer. The rounded side should face the belt, to help guide it into place should it try to wander.
# Insure that the woodruff key is in place.
# Install the crank pulley, being careful to line up the slot for the woodruff key carefully.
# Tighten the bolt down.
# You will need to lock the engine in place, as you did to remove the crank pulley.
# Tighten crank bolt and torque to 159-174 ft-lbs.
===Alternator Belt===

# Set the water pump pulley onto the pump. Install the bolts and slightly tighten them by hand.
# Install the alternator/water pump belt.
# Tighten the alternator adjustment bolt (12mm) until belt is sufficiently tight. There should be approximately 1/4" of deflection at the mid point.
# Tighten the 12mm lock nut on the adjustment bracket to 20-24 ft-lbs.
# If you had to loosen it, tighten the pivot bolt to 12-15 ft-lbs.

===A/C Belt===

# Install the A/C belt.
# Tighten the A/C adjustment/idler bolt (12mm) until the belt is sufficiently tight. There should be approximately 1/4" of defletion at the mid point of the belt.
# Tighten the 12mm lock nut on the adjustment bracket to 23 ft-lbs.

===Power Steering Belt===

# Install the power steering belt.
#* Sometimes the power steering pump won't flex itself to adjust enough. In this case, it's sometimes easier to walk the belt on by rotating the crank.
# Tighten the power steering pump adjustment bolt (12mm) until the belt is sufficiently tight. There should be approximately 1/2" of deflection at the mid point of the belt.
# Tighten the 12mm bracket if you loosened it earlier 12-25 ft-lbs.
# Tighten the 12mm lock nut to 12-25 ft-lbs.
# Tighten the 17mm lock nut to approximately 20-24 ft-lbs.
 Finally, install the fan clutch. Tighten the nuts down to 4.3-7.2 ft-lbs. 
==Radiator==

# Install the radiator. On a TT model, it can be kind of difficult to get it in because of the intercooler piping.
# Be sure to land the radiator into the little rubber insulators.
# Install the upper and lower coolant hoses.
# Install lower radiator shroud (3 clips).
# Remove rags from intercooler outlet pipes and reinstall throttle body hoses.
# Fill the radiator with coolant bleed the cooling system.
## If you still can, raise the front of the vehicle up to assist in getting coolant into the engine.
## Start the car and allow it to warm up with the heater on.
## Continue to add coolant as the car warms up, revving it slightly as you fill it until it's full.
[[File:DSC05883.jpg|frameless|alt=DSC05883.jpg]] Confirm there are no leaks, strange squeaks or rattles, etc.... and enjoy! 

[[Category:Engine Components]][[Category:How-To Guides]]

Throttle Position Sensor

2018-04-05T21:59:04Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Throttle Position Sensor''' or '''TPS''' is an electrical sensor that tells the [[ECU]] how far open or closed the throttle body of a car is. In a car with cable-actuated throttles (as opposed to "drive-by-wire"), the accelerator pedal physically opens and closes the throttle. However, because cars utilizing [[Electronic Fuel Injection]] change various engine-controlling parameters for different driving situations, it is necessary for the ECU to be able to read the open or closed position of the throttle. 
[[File:980l.jpg|alt=980l.jpg|thumb|A Z32 throttle position sensor.]]
 
==On the Z32==
The Z32's throttle position sensor is actually two devices in one housing. Two parts that make it up are the '''Throttle Sensor''' and '''Hard Idle Switch'''. The Throttle Sensor uses the oval-shaped gray connector on the pigtail, while the Hard Idle Switch uses the three-pinned square connector on the front of the unit. The Throttle Sensor returns a specific voltage, ranging between approx 0.4V DC to approx 5.0V DC, which is used to indicate exactly how far open the throttle is (with ~0.4V being totally closed and ~5V being totally open). The Hard Idle Switch is an ON/OFF switch that turns on to tell the ECU that the throttle is completely closed and to enter "idle mode." Some Z32 TPSs also include a Wide-Open Throttle Switch. It is functionally identical to the Hard Idle Switch, with the sole exception being that it turns on when the throttle is fully opened (rather than fully closed). However, this switch is not used by the Z32 (automatic Zs use a "kickdown" switch located under the gas pedal). <div style="text-align: center">[[File:tps_fsm_diagram.jpg|frameless|alt=tps_fsm_diagram.jpg]]</div> 
==Setting the TPS==
An incorrectly adjusted TPS will cause the car to buck or briefly stall when coming off idle, or make the car idle high (around 1500 RPM usually). It's vital that the TPS is set correctly. For your TPS to be set correctly, the following conditions must all be '''''simultaneously true'''''. 

* The throttle bodies should be closed all the way. Removing the intake pipes allows you to see if they are completely closed. With the throttle closed, you should be able to see a port (one on each throttle) on the bottom of the throttle chamber. These ports lead to vacuum nipples on the undersides of the throttle chambers. If the butterfly valve is slightly open, it usually obscures the ports.
* The '''Throttle Sensor''' must read between '''0.4v''' and '''0.5v'''.
* The '''Hard Idle Switch''' should be "ON."

==Consult Interface==
The best way to set the TPS is to use a [[Consult]] interface such as Nissan DataScan or conzult. This allows you to quickly and easily see both the voltage of the Throttle Sensor and condition (ON or OFF) of the Hard Idle Switch. After loosening the two small screws holding the TPS to the driver's side throttle body, rotating it will change the states of the two sensors. Rotating it clockwise lowers the Throttle Sensor's voltage, and rotating it counter-clockwise increases it. There is a "sweet spot" found while rotating the TPS where the Hard Idle Switch will turn on WHILE the Throttle Sensor reads between .4v and .5v. A common method of failure for the TPS appears where these two requirements cannot be met at the same time. That is, it can be set to show voltage between .4v and .5v, but the Hard Idle Switch shows off. If it's set to a position where the Hard Idle Switch turns on, the Throttle Sensor won't be in the proper voltage range (often around .3v). Owners will often set their TPSs to in the ~.4v-.5v range, but without the Hard Idle Switch being on, the car will idle high (between 1500RPM and 2000RPM). If you're unable to get the TPS voltage and hard idle switch to their "sweet spot," try this: 

* Rotate the TPS so that the TPS voltage is reading between 0.4 to 0.5v.
* Unplug the gray oval TPS connector for several seconds. You should be able to see the voltage (as displayed via consult) rise. After about ~8 seconds, the hard idle switch should display "on"
* Reconnect the gray oval TPS connector.
 Another, less common method of failure is one where the Throttle Sensor "track" becomes dirty. This causes the voltage to have "dead spots", which can present itself as hesitation or bucking while driving. 
==Volt Meter==
The TPS can also be adjusted and set with basic tools.
===Tools Required===

* Philps screwdriver and/or 7mm thin-wall socket.
* Multimeter
 Original writeup from [http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=960871 this] thread. 
===Hard Idle Switch===
[[File:tpshardidleswitch.jpg|frameless|alt=tpshardidleswitch.jpg]] 

# Remove the front connector of the TPS (for the hard idle switch).
# Check the continuity across pins A and B. There should be continuity between the pins when the throttle is closed, and no continuity when the throttle is opened.

===Position Sensor===
[[File:tps3.jpg|frameless|alt=tps3.jpg]] 

# Disconnect the gray oval connector.
# Turn the key to ON. Don't start the car.
# The following voltage readings should be true. This will verify the TPS is receiving power correctly.
#* Pin A (black wire) to ground should be 0V.
#* Pin B (orange/blue wire) should be 5V.
# Remove the key from the ignition.
# The following resistance readings should be true. This will verify the TPS is smoothly adjusting its output value.
#* Pin C (black wire) to pin E (red wire) should be about 9,000 ohms.
#* Pin C (black wire) to pin D (white wire) should be 1,000 ohms. If you slowly open the throttle, this resistance should climb to about 9,000 ohms.
# Plug the TPS (gray oval) connector back in.
# Use a small strip of solid (not stranded) wire and insert it into the back of the connector where the white wire is connected on the TPS side. Insert it far enough to make contact with the electrical pin inside. [[File:tpsvoltagetest.jpg|frameless|alt=tpsvoltagetest.jpg]]
#* A paperclip works well, too.
# Turn the key to ON. Don't start the car.
# Measure the voltage between the wire you inserted and ground (the body of the plenum will work). The voltage should be between 0.4v and 0.5v. As you open the throttle, it should go up to between 4V and 5V.

===Adjustment===
If your hard idle switch isn't showing ON with the throttle closed, or the position sensor isn't in the correct voltage range, it is necessary to adjust your TPS. 

# Leaving the hard idle switch disconnected, loosen the TPS bolts (2x 7mm). Do not remove them, and be careful not to strip them if you're trying with a philips.
# Continue to read the resistance across pins A and B (as seen in the Hard Idle Switch section). Rotate the TPS so that the switch just turns on (continuity exists).
# Gently snug at least one of the TPS bolts down.
# Reading the voltage across the inserted wire from the Position Sensor section, ensure the voltage is between 0.4V and 0.5V.
# If any adjustments are made to get the position switch into the correct voltage range, repeat step 2 to ensure the hard idle switch is still showing ON with the throttle closed.
## If you're unable to get the TPS voltage and hard idle switch to their "sweet spot," try this:
##* Rotate the TPS so that the TPS voltage is reading between 0.4 to 0.5v.
##* Unplug the gray oval TPS connector for several seconds. You should be able to see the voltage (as displayed via consult) rise. After about ~8 seconds, the hard idle switch should display "on"
##* Reconnect the gray oval TPS connector. 
 For your TPS to be set correctly, the following conditions must all be '''''simultaneously true'''''. 

* The throttle bodies should be closed all the way. Removing the intake pipes allows you to see if they are completely closed. With the throttle closed, you should be able to see a port (one on each throttle) on the bottom of the throttle chamber. These ports lead to vacuum nipples on the undersides of the throttle chambers. If the butterfly valve is slightly open, it usually obscures the ports.
* The '''Throttle Sensor''' must read between '''0.4v''' and '''0.5v'''.
* The '''Hard Idle Switch''' should be "ON."
 There is a "sweet spot" found while rotating the TPS where the Hard Idle Switch will turn on WHILE the Throttle Sensor reads between 0.4v and 0.5v. If this cannot be achieved, the sensor is bad and must be replaced. 

[[Category:Electronic Fuel Injection]][[Category:Parts]]

Throttle Body

2018-04-05T21:59:01Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

A '''Throttle Body''' is a device which houses a butterfly valve to vary the amount of air the engine intakes, as well as various auxiliary and related components, like springs (to return them to a closed position), vacuum ports for emissions control devices, and water ports for internal warming. The VG30DE(TT) uses twin throttle bodies. [[File:images.jpg|frameless|alt=images.jpg]] 
==Location and Function==
Throttle Bodies are directly connected to the gas pedal, and control the amount of incoming air that for the engine to ingest and combust. By way of their butterfly valve, throttle bodies allow the driver to control the speed and power of the engine. The Z32's throttle body setup includes: 

* Twin 52mm (?) throttle bodies
* A [[Throttle Position Sensor|throttle position sensor]]
* Adjustable linkage to connect the two throttle bodies
* [[Coolant Line Bypass|Coolant lines]] to keep the throttles warm (to prevent them from freezing over in cold driving conditions).

==Installation and Adjustment==
While removal of the throttle bodies is quite straightforward (just remove the four hex-head bolts securing each one to the plenum), installation can be a bit more tricky.
===Installation===

# Align the new paper gasket to determine its correct orientation.
# Apply a very thin smear of liquid gasket to either side of the new paper gasket.
# Place the paper gasket on the intake manifold.
# Place the throttle body on the intake manifold.
# Insert the four hex-head bolts and gently snug them down by hand.
# Repeat for the opposite side throttle body.
# Attach the "accel-drum" (linkage) unit to the center mount on the plenum.
# Insert the three hex-head bolts and gently snug them down by hand.
# Torque the bolts in the following order. [[File:throttle_torque.jpg|frameless|alt=throttle_torque.jpg]]
## 1 --> 2 --> 3 --> 4
##* 6.5 - 8.0 ft-lb
## 1 --> 2 --> 3 --> 4
##* 13 - 16 ft-lb
## A --> B --> C
##* Tighten by hand
## A --> B --> C
##* 3.5 ft-lb
## A --> B --> C
##* 14 ft-lb

===Adjustment===
''Images from Drk93TT on TT.net'' 

# Remove the throttle body intake pipes.
# Remove the throttle cable cover (on the center of the engine).
# Loosen the 14mm bolts that secure the throttle cable (the driver's side one; the passenger side one is for the cruise control) to its bracket and remove it from the bracket. You can leave it attached at the throttle drum.
# Open the throttle bodies and secure them open with a screwdriver.
# Loosen the lock-nut under the adjustment peg (8mm) on the throttle body. [[File:Photobucket.jpg|frameless|alt=Photobucket.jpg]]
# Turn the adjustment peg to create a gap in between the arm and the peg.
# Close the throttle bodies.
# Loosen the lock-nut on the linkage (8mm).
# Turn the adjustment peg while observing the throttle body's butterfly valve. [[File:adjust-1.jpg|frameless|alt=adjust-1.jpg]]
#* There is a vacuum port on the underside of each throttle body. When the valve is '''fully closed''' you should be able to see the opening for this port from the inside. Turn the peg until the throttle closes all the way and this port is visible. Do not over-turn it, or it may cause the throttle to stick.
# Tighten the lock nut on the linkage (8mm).
# Turn the adjustment peg on the throttle body until it just meets the stopper (but not so much that it forces the throttle open). It may be necessary to open the throttle again while adjusting. [[File:dsideadjustd.jpg|frameless|alt=dsideadjustd.jpg]]
# Tighten the lock nut on the throttle body adjuster (8mm).
# Repeat for the opposite side. [[File:pass.jpg|frameless|alt=pass.jpg]]
# Insert the throttle cable back into its slot in the bracket on the plenum. It may be necessary to turn the 14mm lock nuts slightly to get it to fit properly. It should ''not'' pull tension on the throttle linkage, but there should be practically no slack, either.
# Tighten the throttle cable's 14mm lock nuts.

==Upgrades==
A popular upgrade to stock throttle bodies are 58mm or 60mm throttle bodies. These require honing out the intake manifold to match, but their large diameter offers better flow characteristics over stock throttle bodies, increasing response.
===Honing the Intake Manifold===

# Install the throttle body without a gasket. Hand-tighten the bolts so the position is true.
# Open the valve fully.
# Trace the opening (this can be tricky with the butterfly valve in place) with a sharpie. [[File:c-openingtrace.jpg|frameless|alt=c-openingtrace.jpg]]
# Remove the throttle body.
# Repeat steps 1-4 for the opposite side.
# Using a carbide tip, dremel out the plenum to meet the line you traced earlier. [[File:h-portentrance.jpg|frameless|alt=h-portentrance.jpg]]
# Remove as many metal shavings as possible. Use a vacuum, air compressor, brake cleaner, whatever it takes to get it cleaned out.
# Install the throttle bodies like normal.

==Coolant Ports==
The stock throttle bodies feature coolant ports to circulate coolant around them. Despite the name, coolant is quite hot (around 174 degrees F) at operating temperature. These coolant lines were installed as a safety measure to prevent the throttle bodies from freezing over during extended periods of driving in extremely cold climates. However, as these coolant ports add complexity to the [[Cooling System|cooling system]] and make [[Intake Manifold Removal|removal of the intake manifold]] much more difficult, they are often [[Coolant Line Bypass|bypassed]] with no resulting ill-effects. 
==Butterfly Valve==
Butterfly Valves are the post-metamorphosis version of the [[Plenum Gasket|caterpillar gasket]]. They are often observed and collected for their colorful wings. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:How-To Guides]]

Thermostat

2018-04-05T21:59:00Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Thermostat''' is a thermostatic valve that maintains a specific coolant temperature throughout the [[Cooling System|cooling system]]. [[File:999l.jpg|frameless|alt=999l.jpg]] 
==Function==
The thermostat closes at cold temperatures, and begins to open around 170°F and opens fully (about 10mm) at 194°F. As the temperature of coolant increases, it opens more. As the temperature decreases, it closes slightly. This has the effect of maintaining the temperature of the coolant at around 180°F, which is ideal for reducing wear on engine components and producing peak horsepower. 
==Location==
The thermostat is sandwiched between the [[Upper Coolant Pipe|upper coolant pipe]] and [[Thermostat Housing|thermostat housing]]. It should be installed with a thin bead of liquid gasket around the "slot" in the upper coolant pipe. 
==Maintenance==
Thermostats do fail. Usually when they do, the wax pellet that causes the expansion bursts and fails, causing it to "stick" closed. When this happens, the car will overheat regardless of driving conditions. This can be a gradual process, too, beginning with normal operation and slowly opening less and less, causing overheating to varying intensities. The thermostat is to be replaced every 60,000 miles as part of the 60k maintenance service. Being that it is cheap and easy to replace, there's no reason not to. 
==Aftermarket==
Aftermarket thermostats (NISMO, Billion) are available that open at a lower temperature, though the merits of this lower opening point are a point of debate among Z32 enthusiasts. Some argue that lowering the operating temperature brings the engine out of if its most efficient temperature range and can reduce wear. Others say the lower opening temperature only indicates when the thermostat begins to open, and that it behaves mostly the same as a stock thermostat except that it opens further. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Thermostat Housing

2018-04-05T21:59:00Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Thermostat Housing''' is an aluminum piping assembly mounted between the two cylinder heads. As the name states, it houses the thermostat. [[File:rebuild_17.jpg|frameless|alt=rebuild_17.jpg]] 
==Function==
The Thermostat Housing has a few different functions. 

* Provide a mounting point for the [[Thermostat|thermostat]].
* Provide a coolant passage from the thermostat to the [[Water Pump|water pump]] below.
* Provide a return path from the [[Heater Core|heater core]], [[Turbocharger|turbochargers]], and [[Throttle Body|throttle bodies]] to the [[Upper Coolant Pipe|upper coolant pipe]].

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Theft Warning System

2018-04-05T21:58:59Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The stock '''theft warning system''', when armed, monitors the doors, hood, locks, and hatch (trunk in convertible, along with radio bezel in convertible), and when any of these are disturbed, sounds the theft warning horn, flashes the headlight high beams, and disables the starter. The 'SECURITY' lamp on the instrument cluster indicates the system state. It can be armed by locking the doors, manually or with the key, but can only be disarmed by unlocking one of the doors or hatch with the key. The [[File:pdf.png|frameless|32x32px|alt=93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf|link=Factory Service Manual]] has a section on the theft warning system, available here: <div class="objectEmbed">[[File/view/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf/313045966/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf]]<div>[[File/view/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf/313045966/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf|93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf]] 

* [[File/detail/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf|Details]]
* [[File/view/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf/313045966/93_FSM_EL_Theft_Warning_System.pdf|Download]]
* 1 MB
</div></div> (93 USDM). Other model years may have different wire colors and harness connections. 
==Component locations and descriptions==
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Component_layout.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Component_layout.png]] Note: 'Pin X' refers to the pin as labeled on the control unit connector, unless otherwise stated. 
{| class="wikitable"
|
===A. Theft warning relay===
| 
|-
| ''Location:'' Engine bay fuse/relay box ''Function:'' Disables starter by interrupting the starter relay coil 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Warning_relay.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Warning_relay.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===B. Hood switch===
| 
|-
|
''Location:'' Engine bay, in front of driver's side upper shock mount ''Function:'' Triggers alarm when hood is opened by grounding pin 15. [[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Hood_switch_2.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Hood_switch_2.png]] 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Hood_switch.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Hood_switch.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===C. Theft warning control unit and horn relay===
| 
|-
|
''Location:'' Passenger side footwell, attached to lower dash support, above the ECU. ''Function:'' Processes system inputs and triggers outputs. Horn relay is activated when alarm is triggered by grounding pin 12. [[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Control_unit_pinout.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Control_unit_pinout.png]] 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Control_unit_and_horn_relay.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Control_unit_and_horn_relay.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===D. Door lock switch, unlock switch, key cylinder tamper switch===
| 
|-
| ''Location:'' Driver and passenger door handles ''Function:'' Door lock / unlock switch - When key is used to lock the door, pin 7 is grounded. When key is used to unlock the door, pin 11 is grounded. Arms / disarms the system. Door key cylinder tamper switch - If the key cylinder is removed from the door, pin 5 is grounded. 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Door_lock_switch.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Door_lock_switch.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===E. Door switch===
| 
|-
|
''Location:'' Driver and passenger door jambs ''Function:'' Triggers alarm when door is opened by grounding pin 6. [[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Door_switch_2.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Door_switch_2.png]] 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Door_switch.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Door_switch.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===F. Door unlock sensor===
| 
|-
| ''Location:'' Driver and passenger door, inside, below latch ''Function:'' Tells the control unit if the door is unlocked, so it can know if a door was locked or unlocked manually (without a key). 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Door_unlock_sensor.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Door_unlock_sensor.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===G. Back door switch, unlock switch, key cylinder tamper switch===
| 
|-
| ''Location:'' In rear, behind center trim panel (except convertible) ''Function:'' Door switch - Triggers alarm when hatch is opened by grounding pin 6 and 14. Unlock switch - When the hatch is unlocked with a key, pin 10 is grounded. Door key cylinder tamper switch - If the key cylinder is removed from the hatch, pin 5 is grounded. 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Back_door_switch.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Back_door_switch.png]] 
|-
| 
| 
|-
|
===H. Theft warning horn===
| 
|-
| ''Location:'' Engine bay, underneath battery tray. ''Function:'' Horn is sounded when alarm is triggered. 
|
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Warning_horn.png|frameless|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Warning_horn.png]] 
|}

==Normal operation==
 To check if the stock alarm is operating correctly, make sure the doors, hood, and hatch are all closed. The SECURITY light on the instrument cluster should not be illuminated. Open each door individually, and confirm the SECURITY light flashes when the door is open and goes out again when the door is closed. Repeat for the hood and hatch. Now, with all doors, hood, and hatch closed, and the driver's window open, lock the driver's door, and confirm the SECURITY light goes solid for 30-40 seconds, then goes out. The system is now armed. Reach inside the open window and unlock and open the driver's door. The alarm should be triggered, sounding the horn and flashing the lights. Get in the car and attempt to start it with the key. The starter should not work. Disarm the alarm by unlocking the driver's door with the key. The horn and lights should stop flashing, and the car should now start with the key. 
==Troubleshooting==
===The SECURITY light is always flashing===
This means the control unit sees one of your doors, hood, or hatch as open. Not only will this prevent the system from arming, but it also places a drain on the battery when the car is parked. A common culprit is the hood switch, as the bracket that holds it in position can be bent downward, causing the hood not to make contact when closed. A fault with the other door switches, hatch switch, key cylinder tamper switches, or harness are also possible. Use Diagnostic Procedure 1 in the FSM extract at the top of the page if the problem is not readily apparent. 
===The alarm goes off and my key won't disable it===
Often this is because the plastic piece connected to the key cylinder in the door breaks off, which means the door unlock switch is never triggered when the door is unlocked with the key, so the control unit never sees the door unlock signal. This can be checked by removing the door panel and looking at the back of the key cylinder. Z1 Motorsports sells a metal replacement which can be seen [http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=3717 here]. If this is not the problem, use Diagnostic Procedure 7. 
[[File:Theft_warning_system_-_Door_trigger_missing.jpg|alt=Theft_warning_system_-_Door_trigger_missing.jpg|thumb|Door lock cylinder missing unlock trigger piece]]
 
==Integration with aftermarket alarm==
The stock theft warning system can be retained with an aftermarket alarm, and its wiring harness provides several useful connections to tap into at the control unit. All door switches, key cylinder tamper switches, and lock / unlock sensors act as open circuits when normal (door / hatch / hood closed, key cylinder intact) and connect to ground when activated (door / hatch / hood open, key cylinder removed, door lock / unlock signal). To arm the stock system with the aftermarket alarm, tie the door lock switch, pin 7, to a grounded output when the doors are locked with the remote, and tie the door unlock switch, pin 11, to a grounded output when the doors are unlocked with the remote. If desired, the stock theft warning system can be disabled by simply disconnecting the control unit. This has no effect on any other vehicle systems. 

[[Category:How-To Guides]]

Tension Rod

2018-04-05T21:58:58Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''tension rod''' is a suspension component responsible for maintaining '''caster''' of the front wheels. It does this by limiting the fore-aft movement of the wheel hub assembly. 
[[File:0010_turp_07_z+nissan_300zx_suspension_upgrades+tension_rod_comparison.jpg|alt=0010_turp_07_z+nissan_300zx_suspension_upgrades+tension_rod_comparison.jpg|thumb|A stock tension rod (top) and adjustable tension rod (bottom).]]
 
==Location & Function==
Tension rods are located between the front lower control arm and the front crossmember. They control the caster of the wheel. Stock tension rods also have clamp-on air guides to help direct cool air to the front brakes. 
[[File:0010_turp_05_z+nissan_300zx_suspension_upgrades+stock_tension_rod.jpg|alt=0010_turp_05_z+nissan_300zx_suspension_upgrades+stock_tension_rod.jpg|thumb|Stock tension rods being removed from a Z.]]
 
==Upgrades==
As tension rods wear, they tend to cause a sloppy feeling in the front end, in addition to a shimmy under braking. As this happens, it becomes necessary to replace the tension rod bushings or the entire tension rod. 
[[File:300ZX-NISMO-TENSION-ROD-BUSHINGS-1990-1996-PAIR-for-sale_230606347710.jpg|alt=300ZX-NISMO-TENSION-ROD-BUSHINGS-1990-1996-PAIR-for-sale_230606347710.jpg|thumb|NISMO makes stiffer rubber bushings for Z32 tension rods. Another popular option is urethane by Energy Suspension.]]
 Aftermarket tension rods are almost always adjustable types. This allows the user to adjust the caster of the tension rod. This is especially necessary when installing aftermarket [[Front Upper Control Arm|FUCAs]] utilizing bearings, rather than bushings. In addition to the adjustability, most aftermarket tension rods replace rubber or urethane bushings with spherical bearings (heim joints), which provide a crisper turn-in feel and are less prone to wear and play. 
[[File:Front_Tensionrods.jpg|alt=Front_Tensionrods.jpg|thumb|Powertrix Adjustable Tension Rods.]]
 
==Replacement==
Tension rods are easily replaced with simple hand tools. ''Images from TTZD and IZCC.''
===Parts Needed===

* 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm wrenches & ratchets. Air tools are helpful, but not required.
* Jack & Jack-stands

===Removal===

# Raise the car and support it safely on jack stands.
# Remove the end-nuts on the tension rod (2 x 14mm) [[File:lower_control_arm.jpg|frameless|alt=lower_control_arm.jpg]]
# Pop the tension rod arm out of the lower control arm.
# Remove the bolt securing the tension rod (bushing-end) to the crossmember (17mm nut and 17mm bolt head). [[File:rod3.jpg|frameless|alt=rod3.jpg]]
# Remove the tension rod from the crossmember.
# Repeat for the opposite side.

===Preperation===

* If installing new stock tension rods, you will have to transfer their studs from the old tension rods. Simply hammer them out of the old ones, then hammer them in to the new rods.
* If installing adjustable tension rods, adjust the new tension rod so it's approximately the same length as the stock one. This won't be perfect, but it will get you to the alignment shop. [[File:tensionrod11.jpg|frameless|alt=tensionrod11.jpg]]

===Installation===

# Position the tension rod in place, and insert the 17mm bolt for the bushing side. Torque it (and the nut) to 80-100 ft-lbs. [[File:new_OEM_tension_rod_in_place.jpg|frameless|alt=new_OEM_tension_rod_in_place.jpg]]
# Pull the front wheels to allow the front tension rod studs to go through the lower control arm holes. It will take some persuasion.
# Install the tension rod end-nuts (2 x 14mm). Torque to 80-94 ft-lbs, or 69-83 ft-lbs on the convertible model (for unknown reasons). [[File:tension_rod_torqued_down.jpg|frameless|alt=tension_rod_torqued_down.jpg]]
# Repeat for the opposite side.
# Have the car aligned--major suspension work often changes the suspension geometry slightly, throwing off an alignment. This is especially true with adjustable tension rods.

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Suspension]][[Category:How-To Guides]]

Suction Throttle Valve

2018-04-05T21:58:56Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''suction throttle valve''' is a device mounted with the [[AC Evaporator|A/C Evaporator]] as a way to regulate the temperature of the evaporator without cycling the compressor on and off. The suction throttle valve was only present on R12-equipped Z32s (1990-1993) with automatic climate control. Manual climate control equipped cars and R134A equipped cars used a thermostatic amplifier to cycle the compressor on and off. [[File:01.jpg|frameless|alt=01.jpg]] '''Function''' The suction throttle valve acted as a sort of pressure regulator on the evaporator. As the [[AC Compressor|A/C Compressor]] creates a suction on the low side of the evaporator, the temperature can be controlled by regulating (throttling) the pressure in the evaporator. To low a pressure will cause the temperature to drop and can cause the evaporator to freeze, while too high a pressure will cause the refrigerant to cycle poorly and cause the evaporator to warm up, decreasing the effectiveness of the air conditioning. 
==Failure==
''Writeup by DanZee on [http://www.zcar.com/90-96_tech_discussion_forum/throttle_suction_valve_-_a c_repair_783581.0.html zcar.com]'' Over time, the suction throttle valve often becomes clogged or fails internally, restricting refrigerant flow, sometimes completely. This often leads to a situation in which the high pressure side sees excessively high pressures, while the low pressure side sees excessively low pressure. This is in addition to little or no cooling occurring at the evaporator. Owners have noted that they can feel one pipe on the evaporator almost (or fully) frozen, while the rest of it is of ambient temperature. 
===Symptoms===

* [[Auto Climate Control Diagnostics|A/C diagnostic]] shows no problems with climate control or sensors.
* You get ambient temp air when the A/C is on full blast.
* Your compressor functions normally and your lines are cooling/frosting.

===Diagnosis===

# Remove your glove box.
# Remove plastic bezel from under glove box. (three plastic popout clips)
# Remove two 10mm nuts from the bottom hinge of the glove box
# Remove one #2 phillips screw from the spring/shock holder and remove the glove box.
# Remove the fan feedback sensor (Large heatsink like unit) this is the two philips screws right in the middle behind the glove box.
# Remove the feedback sensor, and feel the evaporator coils with your hand with the a/c fully on. It should be ice cold. If not it could be your Throttle Suction Valve.
 
==Gutting==
Because the part is no longer available, many owners opt to gut the suction throttle valve, essentially bypassing it and allowing coolant to flow by unrestricted. This should be done with caution, as it can cause evaporator temperatures to drop excessively. While rare, it is still a possibility, and it should again be noted that systems which originally utilized a suction throttle valve did so due to the lack of any other form to regulate temperature at the evaporator. ''Writeup by DanZee on [http://www.zcar.com/90-96_tech_discussion_forum/throttle_suction_valve_-_a c_repair_783581.0.html zcar.com]. Supplemented with photos courtesy of Adrian V.'' 

# Have the system fully discharged by a qualified shop.
# Disconnect your high and low side lines at the firewall(right next to your battery.
# Remove the 10mm nut holding the rubber gromet on the firewall between the lines (next to the battery)
# Remove the rubber gromet (slides out with factory slits) and slide off the metal gromet holder.
# Remove your glove box as above.
# Remove your radio bezel, and shifter bezel and the passenger swede cover that goes from the glove box to the shifter.
# Remove the swede trim on the passenger side of the glove box.
# Remove the metal glove box frame on the face side of the glove box.
# Remove the 3-10mm nuts holding the blower unit in place(one 10mm screw on top two nuts on the bottom)
# Remove all electrical connectors (5 I think)
# Work the blower unit toward the passenger side (4-5 inches)
# Remove the three cooling unit nuts 10 mm.
# Slide the cooling unit(the thing with the evaporator in it) to the passenger side and gently work it out.
# Remove it from the car gently by sliding out from under the dash.
# Once removed, there are several metal clips that pop off carefully with a screwdriver.
# Separate the plastic housing from the evaporator.
# Remove the expansion valve feedback tube from the throttle suction valve.(you will need to peel back the black tar crap to get at it.
# The throttle suction valve is large and is the only thing on the evaporator unit that has two philips screw holding it in place (connected to one of the lines). Remove it by removing the two philips screws. [[File:03.jpg|frameless|alt=03.jpg]]
# Put your thumb over the threaded portion of the TSV port, and stick an air compressor nozzle in the expansion valve port.
# The TSV body should pop right out. [[File:04.jpg|frameless|alt=04.jpg]]
# Installation is the reverse of removal.
# [[AC Recharge|Recharge system]] and have a shop check for leaks.

[[Category:Air Conditioning System]][[Category:Parts]]

Spoiler

2018-04-05T21:58:53Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

'''Spoilers''' are automotive body parts, usually attached to the rear of a car to help reduce aerodynamic lift cars often experience at speed. They are almost always seen as an aesthetic piece, but functional spoilers are common in motosports. 
[[File:DSC_0245-1.jpg|alt=DSC_0245-1.jpg|thumb|90-93 Turbos came with a "flushmount" spoiler.]]
 
===Etymology===
"Spoilers" are called such because their function is to "spoil" the airfoil effect created by the shape of a car moving at high speeds. The rear end of many cars tend to lift slightly at high speed, which can cause instability and even poor handling. Spoilers should not be confused with wings, which, while often referred to interchangeably with spoilers, serve a different function and often look very different. While spoilers help reduce the lift caused by the airfoil effect, wings create downforce at high speeds. That is, if functional, they actually push down on the car at high speed, to help improve grip and handling. Such aerodynamics are extremely common in competitive motorsports and sports cars. Some car makers (such as Gumpert, referring to their Apollo) go so far to say that their aerodynamics create so much downforce that the car could theoretically drive upside-down in a tunnel. 
[[File:02-z.jpg|alt=02-z.jpg|thumb|The Stillen IMSA 300ZX used a large rear wing.]]
 
===Z32 Spoilers and Wings===
Naturally aspirated cars never came (stock) with spoilers, at least from the factory. In the United States, some dealerships added spoilers to NAs as an option. Japanese cars got spoilers depending on their "version" (the Version S, for example, received a spoiler regardless of aspiration). From 90-93, the Turbo model included a "flushmount" spoiler. In 94, it switched to a "pedestal" type. In 1999 (Japan-only), the spoiler was once again redesigned. The original flushmount spoiler is often regarded as the best looking spoiler for the Z, though many prefer different types or even a "wingless" (no spoiler) look. The original spoiler was made from a dense foam due to it needing to form perfectly to the shape of the hatch. Over the years, they tend to rot, crack, cause the hatch to rust, and peel. Nissan discontinued production of the original spoiler in the late 90's, and cheap fiberglass replacements became somewhat common. Many aren't the same design as the original (leaving the third brake like exposed, while the real spoiler replaced it) and fit poorly. Kuruma manufactures the "Zeta" replica wing, as does Powertrix, and these two are commonly regarded as the best fiberglass replacements for the original wing. Cars with the (real) flushmount spoiler do not have the plastic third brake light strip, as the spoiler body covers and fills in the area where the strip would otherwise be. All cars 94+ did have the plastic TBL strip, as they either had no spoiler, or had a spoiler that mounted to the top of the hatch and did not fill in the TBL's mounting area. 
[[File:028535.jpg|alt=028535.jpg|thumb|The "flushmount" spoiler.]]
 
[[File:22406070002_large.jpg|alt=22406070002_large.jpg|thumb|The "pedestal" spoiler, introduced with the 1994 model.]]
 
[[File:02.jpg|alt=02.jpg|thumb|A 1999 Version S slicktop, showing the "99 jspec wing."]]
 
[[File:4654789049_2ee43c52b5_b.jpg|alt=4654789049_2ee43c52b5_b.jpg|thumb|mclarenf1kid's car, originally being an NA, did not include the spoiler and remains wingless to this day.]]
 

[[Category:Parts]]

Radiator Cap

2018-04-05T21:58:52Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Radiator Cap''' is a small but vital component to the Z32's [[Cooling System|cooling system]]. It is inexpensive and easy to replace, making it good "infrequent maintenance" part. [[File:2731l.jpg|frameless|alt=2731l.jpg]]
==Operation==
The Z32's cooling system is under pressure when it's hot. This is intentional, as the pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant, as the boil would otherwise have to overcome the pressure. However, too much pressure is a bad thing, and can cause leaks, which would lead to no pressure. The radiator cap regulates the pressure in the cooling system to maintain it at approximately 1.2 bar (17 PSI). Under extreme conditions, the cooling system's pressure will exceed this threshold. At this point, the spring-diaphragm in the radiator cap backs off slightly to allow excess coolant to bleed into the [[Overflow Tank|overflow tank]]. Once the cooling system has had a chance to cool down, the coolant contracts as its temperature drops, and eventually draws the excess coolant back from the overflow tank and back into the radiator. 
==Aftermarket Radiator Caps==
There are various aftermarket radiator caps available, such as those included with Mishimoto Radiators. It is highly recommended to stick to a stock radiator cap, as aftermarket versions tend to be inconsistent and unreliable. Those rated for higher pressures may also put additional stress on the cooling system, creating leaks and causing hoses to burst. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Receiver-Drier

2018-04-05T21:58:52Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Receiver/Drier''' is a device that dries refrigerant and acts as a storage reservoir for refrigerant. [[File:1395l.jpg|frameless|alt=1395l.jpg]] 
==Function==
The receiver/drier removes moisture from refrigerant as well as filtering any contaminants or particulates from it. It also acts as an accumulator or reservoir to store excess coolant. The Z32 receiver/drier also houses a pressure switch. 
==Versions==
There are two versions of the receiver/drier which are virtually identical. 

* 1990-1993 (R12 systems)
* 1994+ (R134A) systems
They are interchangeable (aside from the fact that you should never install a used one), and the R134A version can be considered an upgrade for R12 systems as its pressure switch is two-way. That is, the R12 receiver/drier's pressure switch disables the compressor if the refrigerant level is too low. The R134A receiver/drier's pressure switch disables the compressor if the refrigerant level is too low ''or'' too high. 
==Replacement==
Replacement is quite simple and should be done any time the system is exposed to the elements. 
===Tools Needed===

* 10mm socket & ratchet.
* Medium-sized adjustable wrench.

===Parts Needed===

* New receiver/drier (duh).
** Don't remove the protective caps until you're ready to install it.
* New O-rings for the receiver/drier line fittings.

===Procedure===

# Discharge the A/C system if it hasn't been already. Be sure to properly evacuate the system and don't just vent it to the atmosphere.
# Remove the nose panel (2x 10mm bolts, 4x 10mm bolts on airbag-equipped cars).
# Loosen the union fittings on the receiver/drier A/C tubes.
# Disconnect the electrical harness to the receiver/drier pressure switch and ambient temp sensor (if applicable). Remove the harness clips from the receiver/drier bracket.
# Remove the 2x 10mm bolts securing the receiver/drier to the car.
# Remove the receiver/drier.
 Installation of the new unit is the reverse of the removal. Be sure to follow the guidelines for connecting the union fittings in the [[AC Recharge|A/C Recharge]] article, and remember to replace the o-rings with new parts. 

[[Category:Air Conditioning System]][[Category:How-To Guides]][[Category:Parts]]

Safety Mode

2018-04-05T21:58:52Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

'''Safety Mode''' is a condition where the Z's [[ECU]] changes specific settings in order to protect the engine. It is enabled for a variety of reasons, and there are a few different ways it can manifest itself. 
==Different Safety Modes==
Depending on the cause, the ECU has a few different safety routines it can enter to protect the engine. 
===Detonation ("Safety Boost")===
If the ECU detects detonation through the detonation sensor, it enters a mode commonly referred to as "safety boost." It switches to "low octane" fuel/timing maps, which use more fuel and a more retarded [[Ignition Timing|timing]] condition to help prevent the engine from detonating. In turbocharged models, it also applies power to the wastegate solenoids, which open to allow more boost pressure to reach the wastegates. This causes them to open at a maximum of ~7psi, rather than ~9.5psi. This safety mode is also enabled immediately if the ECU throws [[ECU Diagnostics|Code 34]], which indicates a fault with the detonation sensor's circuit. Because the ECU can't detect knocking in this situation, it "errs to the side of caution" by enabling this safety mode. 
===Limp-Home Mode (Code 12/MAF Sensor)===
The "limp-home" mode is enabled if the ECU cannot communicate with the MAF sensor, throwing code 12. Under normal operation, the MAF sensor meters incoming air and the ECU supplies an appropriate amount of fuel. If the ECU has a broken connection to the MAF sensor, it relies on a "backup map" which uses an air/fuel whose values reflect what the amount of incoming air ''should'' be given the current running condition (RPM, load, etc). The ECU also imposes a rev limiter around 2500 RPM when this mode is enabled, to prevent the engine from ingesting too much air (which could be dangerous to the engine without the correct amount of fuel). 
===Overheating===
Should the ECU receive a [[Coolant Temp Sensor|temperature reading]] of over 221°F, it enters an overheating safety mode. This mode enables the [[Auxiliary Fan|auxiliary cooling fan]] (on high speed for turbo models), switches to the low-octane fuel map (to protect against detonation, and decrease combustion temperature through additional fuel), and raises the idle speed to more quickly circulate coolant while increasing the [[Cooling Fan|cooling fan]]'s speed. At this point, the stock [[Gauge Cluster|temperature gauge]] will also begin to raise above the half-way mark. 

[[Category:Electronic Fuel Injection]]

Service Centers

2018-04-05T21:58:52Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The Z32 is a unique, complex car, especially when compared to other Japanese cars from the early 90s. Many owners find that it's best to have a shop or mechanic who specializes in the Z32 to work on the car for this reason. 
==West Coast==

* Professional Shops
** [http://pitstopaz.com/ Pitstop Performance] (Phoenix, AZ)
** [http://specialtyz.com/ Specialty Z] (Chattsworth, CA)
** [http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2607944/MSR-Performance-Now-OPEN-Corona---Southern-California.html MSR Performance] (Corona, CA)

* Z Mechanics
** [http://twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=66612 BEASTT] (Inland Empire, CA)
** [http://twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=64902 BlackholeZ] (San Diego, CA)
** [http://www.twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=72467 fuzzymonkey] (Vancouver, BC)

==East Coast==

* Professional Shops
** [https://www.facebook.com/pages/One-Motion-Garage/172993769454568 One Motion] (Philadelphia, PA)
** [https://www.z1motorsports.com/ Z1 Motorsports] (Carrollton, GA)

* Z Mechanics
** [http://twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=25020 YugoBernie] (NoVA)
** [http://www.ztuner.com/ ztuner] (Saratosa, FL)

==Central==

* Professional Shops
** [https://www.facebook.com/houston.zauto Houston Z Auto] (Houston, TX)
** [https://www.facebook.com/ZHookUP The Z Hookup] (Springfield, MO)

* Z Mechanics
** [http://twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=47769 BOOZTD 3] (Peoria IL)
** [http://twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=71991 ILoveBoost] (Dallas TX)
** [http://twinturbo.net/net/directory.aspx?forum=general&user_id=22423 Woody 75] (Denver CO)

Spark Plug

2018-04-05T21:58:52Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

A '''Spark Plug''' is a device that fits into the cylinder head of an engine. The tip of the spark plug features and electrode, across which high-voltage electricity jumps to create a spark, which ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. 
[[File:P1010389.jpg|alt=P1010389.jpg|thumb|Some NGK Spark Plugs for a TT Z32.]]
===On the Z32===
The original plugs available for the Z32 were manufactured by NGK. Their model numbers were: 
{| class="wikitable"
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | '''Non-Turbo''' 
| style="text-align: center" | '''Turbo''' 
|-
| '''Standard''' 
| PFR6B-11 
| PFR6B-11C 
|-
| '''Hot Type''' 
| PFR5B-11 
| PFR5B-11C 
|-
| '''Cold Type''' 
| PFR7B-11 
| PFR7B-11C 
|}
These plugs come pre-gapped to 0.44" However, all but the PFR7B-11 have been discontinued. The rest of the NA plugs are now of the PFR6'''G''' series, and the turbo plugs are all PFR6B-11'''B'''. For most applications, the plugs that should be used are: 

* NA: PFR6G-11
* TT: PFR6B-11B
'''Gapping''' NA plugs can be left at factory gapping; TT plugs should be gapped to 0.035", as the shorter gap ensures the spark will successfully "make the jump" under higher pressures. '''A note about TT Plugs''': The PFR6B-11B/C was developed '''specifically''' for the TT. The plug extends past the threads by about 1cm to place the electrode in the center of the combustion chamber. No other plug on the market for the Z32 features this. The Iridium IX plug is also available for Z32s, and works excellently in the NA. Some recommend its use in the TT, but others use only use the PFR6B-11B/C for the above reason. 
===Replacing Spark Plugs in the Z32===

# Remove the balance tube (5x12mm). It may be necessary to loosen the IACV hose bracket on the driver's side of the engine as well.
# Disconnect each coilpack connector. Be careful not to lose the little rubber seals in the connectors--they like to jump out.
# Remove the 12mm bolts securing the coilpack brackets to the plenum (2 per coilpack, 12 total). Remove the coilpacks.
# Using a long extension and a 16mm spark plug socket, loosen and remove each spark plug.
# Gap your new plugs as necessary (see above).
# Using the same extension and socket, gently thread in the new plugs. Do it by hand at first and be careful not to cross-thread any.
# Torque to 14-22 ft-lbs.
# Reinstall coilpacks.
# Reinstall coilpack bracket bolts. These do not need to be very tight, just snug.
# Inspect balance tube O-rings. If they're flat (squared), they should be replaced to prevent a vacuum leak. If they're nice and round, they can be reused.
# Install balance tube. Torque nuts/bolts to 12-15 ft-lbs. Don't forget the IACV hose bracket!

===Gapping Autolite Plugs===
Please refer to the guide below: [[File:autolite_guide.jpg|frameless|alt=autolite_guide.jpg]] 

[[Category:How-To Guides]][[Category:Parts]][[Category:Ignition System]]

Radiator

2018-04-05T21:58:50Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Radiator''' is the primary cooling device in the Z32's [[Cooling System|cooling system]]. 
[[File:2059l.jpg|alt=2059l.jpg|thumb|A 2-row stock replacement NA radiator by Koyo.]]
 
==Versions==
There are four versions different radiators sold on the Z32 in the US. The NA radiator's end-tanks were on the top and bottom. The TT radiators were taller and narrower, and had end-tanks on the sides. The difference in shape was to compensate for the intercooler piping on TT models. Cars with automatic transmissions also had integrated transmission coolers. The main inlet and outlets on all Z32 radiators are 44mm in diameter. 
{| class="wikitable"
! 
! Manual Transmission 
! Automatic Transmission 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | '''Non-Turbo''' 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:2059l.jpg|frameless|alt=2059l.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:2059l.jpg|frameless|alt=2059l.jpg]] (Includes integrated transmission cooler) 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | '''Twin Turbo''' 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:TT_Stock_Replacement_Radiator.jpg|frameless|alt=TT_Stock_Replacement_Radiator.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:TT_Stock_Replacement_Radiator.jpg|frameless|alt=TT_Stock_Replacement_Radiator.jpg]] (Includes integrated transmission cooler) 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | '''Twin Turbo (Euro)''' 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:P7310124.jpg|frameless|alt=P7310124.jpg]] (Thicker, higher fin density) 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:P7310129.jpg|frameless|alt=P7310129.jpg]] (Thicker, higher fin density, integrated transmission cooler and integrated power steering cooler) 
|}

==Operation==
The radiator operates by circulating coolant through it while air passes over it. Coolant enters one side of the radiator and passes through narrow passageways which connect each end-tank. These passageways have fins attached to the outside to act as heat sinks. As coolant flows through the passages, air passes over the outside, and the heat from the coolant is transferred to the passing air. When the coolant reaches the other end tank, its temperature is lower than the side from which it entered. On the Z32, coolant enters the radiator through the port on the top-right, and exits through the port on the bottom-left. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

R134A Conversion

2018-04-05T21:58:49Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

From 1990 to 1993, the Z32's air conditioning system used the refrigerant called R12. Due to environmental concerns, the EPA declared "And low, thou shalt not sell vehicles with R12 A/C systems." So all the car manufacturers, Nissan included, made tweaks to their cars to use the more environmentally-friendly R134A. This article explains how to convert an R12 system to R134A. ''Credit to Piranha of [http://projectz32.com ProjectZ32] for the original writeup.'' 
==Parts==

* High side and low side adapters to convert your fittings from R12 to R134A.
* New receiver/dryer (should be replaced whenever the system is opened and exposed to the atmosphere).
* 2x 12 oz cans of pure 134A (no stop leak or oil)
* 4 oz of Ester oil if you opt to flush out all the old oil from the system.
* New o-rings (standard viton o-rings work great).
* AC Vacuum and Manifold Gauges (can rent from AutoZone).

==Procedure==

# If the system is not already discharged, take the Z somewhere to a certified mechanic to have it discharged.
# Remove receiver/drier (discard it).
## Remove the nose panel (2x 10mm bolts, 4x 10mm bolts for airbag-equipped Zs).
## Disconnect the two electrical connectors on the old receiver/drier bracket.
## Loosen the two A/C pipe fittings on the receiver/drier.
## Remove the 2x 10mm bolts securing the receiver/drier to the chassis.
## Remove the receiver/drier.
# If replacing lines, disconnect all fittings and remove the old o-rings.
# Flush each component to remove all mineral oil and debris (evaporator, condenser, lines). There is a drain plug on the underside of the compressor that can be removed to drain it's oil. Replace the same amount with PAG or Ester oil. I chose not to on mine because the replacement compressor I put on mine was already running 134A--unless you're replacing multiple major components (ie compressor and condenser), don't add more oil as there will already be plenty in the system.
# Assemble all lines with new o-rings (lube with oil before assembly)
# Last thing to install is the receiver/dryer (reverse of step 2).
# Place system under vacuum for at least 1 hour. I rented the set up from AutoZone... will come with directions. This removes moisture and air from the system and will let you know if there are any leaks.
#* Vacuuming your system isn't to remove dust mites from the carpet. By creating a vacuum, the boiling/evaporating temperature of water is lowered, allowing any moisture in the system to evaporate and be removed by the vacuum pump.
#* This isn't a step that can be skipped. Not vacuuming will leave air in the system, which will lead to inadequate cooling and higher pressure. Old refrigerant, removed through vacuuming, also contains an oil that becomes corrosive when mixed with PAG oil in R134A.
# With the vacuum pump turned off, leave the system under vacuum to ensure it holds strong vacuum for at least 20 minutes.
# Charge system with 24 oz of 134A.
## Start the car and set the A/C to max cool (60 Degree/AUTO for auto climate control; slider to blue, fan speed on 4 and A/C on for manual climate control).
## Remove the dust cap from the low pressure fitting (the larger tube--it's near the firewall on TTs, and near the passenger headlight on NAs).
## Connect your A/C charging device (be it off-the-shelf sprayer or A/C machine), and begin charging. Follow the directions on the can to see if it's necessary to rotate/agitate the can while charging.
## After adding a few ounces (approx 7oz), the compressor should engage.
## Keep close eye on the pressure as you charge (it may be necessary to stop spraying momentarily to read it). Add refrigerant to meet the ideal pressure. Ideal pressure depends on the ambient temperature, refer to the chart below.
## Enjoy the long-lasting chill!
===Ambient Temperature vs A/C System Pressures===
''These pressures should be measured with the A/C system running.'' 
{| class="wikitable"
! Ambient Air Temperature 
! Low-pressure Side 
! High-pressure Side 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | 68°F 
| style="text-align: center" | 26.3 - 32.1 psi 
| style="text-align: center" | 149 - 181 psi 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | 77°F 
| style="text-align: center" | 26.9 - 32.8 psi 
| style="text-align: center" | 162 - 199 psi 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | 86°F 
| style="text-align: center" | 32.0 - 39.1 psi 
| style="text-align: center" | 195 - 237psi 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | 95°F 
| style="text-align: center" | 39.1 - 47.6 psi 
| style="text-align: center" | 228 - 279psi 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | 104°F 
| style="text-align: center" | 46 - 55 psi 
| style="text-align: center" | 263 - 320psi 
|}
Off-the-shelf A/C charging kits will only give you the low-side reading. '''Do not add refrigerant if the pressure is at or exceeding the recommended pressure. This will not make your A/C cool better, it will make something break'''. 
==Additional Notes & Upgrades==
For those wishing to do a like-stock conversion, you can go a step further and replace the [[AC Condenser|A/C Condenser]] with a later-model (R134A) type. These feature additional cooling fins to produce cooler output temps. Further, it may be necessary to replace the pressure relief valve (mounted on the high-pressure fitting at the A/C compressor) if it has blown. Some go so far to install R134A-designed compressors, but this shouldn't be necessary if your original is in working order and is properly evacuated. 

[[Category:Air Conditioning System]][[Category:How-To Guides]]

Production

2018-04-05T21:58:47Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The Z32 was in production for several years before its release in 1989. Whereas the original 300ZX (Z31) was based on a modified 280ZX chassis, the 300ZX was (as marketed at the time) built from a "blank page." Before beginning the design of the car, Nissan wanted to philosophically answer what a sports car should be, possibly best summed up by the father of the Z car (Yutaka Katayama/Mr. K), a few years after the Z32's production ended:<blockquote>''"We no longer can afford to keep horses at home. Instead, we have sports cars. We can experience with a sports car the sensation of oneness with the car, recreating the finest in equestrian riding, no rider on top, or no horse under the saddle. And in running the public road, a driver should use the utmost in modern technology in the sports car to go safe and easy, as the cavalier of the past did with pride.''</blockquote><blockquote>''[The] sports car is the modern horse that a driver should drive with his heartbeat in harmony with its exhaust notes."''</blockquote>
Their intention with the Z32 was that it should answer the question of "what a sports car should be." Nissan became so obsessed with the idea of creating a perfect sports car, that it is rumored that their design language of the time stated that ''all'' of their cars should be "fun to drive." 
[[File:mid4.jpg|alt=mid4.jpg|thumb|The Mid4 Concept, at the Nissan DNA Garage.]]
Around 1985, Nissan began work on a concept car known as the Mid4. It took on a few different forms over the years, and while Nissan received positive publicity regarding the Mid4 concept, they insisted it remain a concept car. Instead, Nissan used the twin-turbo all-wheel-drive Mid4 as a test bed for technology to later be employed in production cars. The Mid4 allowed Nissan to test, experiment, and fine-tune these technologies before putting them into production. <div style="text-align: center">[[File:claysveriousstages.jpg|frameless|alt=claysveriousstages.jpg]]</div> As the Z32 design team progressed on the car, the Mid4 matured technologically, allowing Nissan to transfer much of its technology over to the Z32. The VG30DETT was developed on the Mid4, as was [[HICAS]], the Z32's (and R32's) suspension, and some other technologies including the All-Wheel Drive System used on the R32. Nissan also purchased a Cray-II Supercomputer to aide in the development of the Z32. At the time, it was one of the most expensive and powerful computers in the world. With its assistance, the Z32 became the first production car to be completely designed in CAD (computer-assisted drafting). <div style="text-align: center">[[File:workingonclay2.jpg|frameless|alt=workingonclay2.jpg]]</div>While the Mid4 was used to spearhead development of the Z32's drivetrain, the styling department was completely independent. Much work went into designing a chassis that was not only attractive, but functional aerodynamically and in every-day driving. Keeping with the intention of building a pure sports car, Nissan also invested heavily into the development of the interior. It was designed to feel like a cockpit, with every switch and instrument within easy access to the driver. The low, swooping design of the interior was far ahead of its time, and Nissan proudly displayed a wooden model of the interior to the press before the car was released. <div style="text-align: center">[[File:gerger.jpg|frameless|alt=gerger.jpg]]</div> 
==Home Market==
The Z32 was released in 1989 and sold in Japan until 1999 (though production ended in 1998). It should be noted that as Japan does not use "model years," a 1989 JDM Z could be compared to a 1990 USDM Z. In its home market, the Z32 was available in the following trims: 

* 2-seater (hard top)
* 2-seater (t-tops)
* 2-seater (convertible)
* 2 by 2 (t-tops)
All trim levels were available naturally aspirated. The Turbo model was available in all trims except convertible. [Can anyone produce an example of a factory TT convertible? Slicktops are out there] 
===Later Years (1997-1999)===
[[File:photo_4_(3).jpg|alt=photo_4_(3).jpg|thumb|Marketing photo of the 1999 Fairlady Z.]]
 Later into its production, the Z32 in Japan was sold under various "version" trims, such as "Version S" or "Version R." These corresponded to various exterior/interior packages and engine configurations. As all models came with a VG30DE or VG30DETT, all models were called the 300ZX, unlike the Z31 which had different models for different engines (such as 200ZR, 300ZR, etc). In 1997, all Z32 models adopted the twin-turbo front fascia, presumably to lower production costs. In 1998, for 1999, the Z32 received a cosmetic update. To name some, the differences included: 

* New front fascia
* New side-skirts
* New taillights (featuring clear turn signal lenses, chrome housings, and black pinstriping)
* New center panel ("300ZX" became red instead of silver)
* New rear spoiler
* Light gold gauges (similar to the Maxima from the same era)
* A slew of new interior options (including carbon fiber accents, "lift-style" window switches, and optional Recaro SR seats).
The 1998 Z32 also received a revised Manual Transmission, which used stronger synchronizers to combat a common "soft-synchro" problem that had become apparent on earlier Z32s. 
==End of Production & Revitalization==
Towards the late 90's, sales for high-end Japanese sports cars dwindled, and the Z was no exception. After the signing of the Plaza Accord, the Yen rapid began to increase in value compared to the dollar, forcing the price of the Z in the US up drastically in the mid-to-late 90's. Combined with the market's growing shift in interest towards SUVs, the high-end Japanese sports car began to die in the late 90s. Nissan stopped selling the 300ZX in the United States as of 1997, making the OBDII-equipped 1996 model the last model officially imported into the US. In 2000, Nissan stopped production of the Z32 completely, effectively ending the 30+ year lineage of the Z-car. On top of the Yen:Dollar exchange difficulties that Nissan faced around the time, dwindling quality control and more drastic cost-cutting measures had left Nissan with a stale, unpopular car lineup and resulted in near-bankruptcy for the company. In 1999, Nissan partnered with French automaker Renault, leaving Renault with 44.3% of Nissan's shares, and Nissan with 15% of Renault shares. Under French law, this did not give Nissan voting representation, allowing Renault to appoint their own Carlos Ghosn as Chief Operating Officer of Nissan. He began the Nissan Revitalization Plan (NRP), and recognized the Z-car as a vital part of Nissan's lineup to preserve its national image as well as promote development of new automotive technology. The Z-car returned in 2002 (2003 in the US) in the form of the 350Z. Ghosn's revitalization of Nissan was such a drastic turnaround, it's become a thing of popular culture in Japan, even being featured in Japanese mangas. In 2004, the Japanese government recognized his achievements and gave him a shiny blue ribbon (seriously). 
==United States==
The Z32 was sold in the United States from 1989 (as a 1990 MY) to 1996. The last 300 1996 models included a small badge on the center console that stated its production number (ie 172 of 300). The table below illustrates the different models and years of Z32s sold in the United States (credit to [http://az-zbum.com AZ-ZBum] for creation of the original table). 
{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="6" | 1990-1996 Z32 300ZX 
|-
! Year 
! 2 seat NA 
! 4 seat NA 
! Turbo 
! convertible 
! Totals 
|-
! 1990 
| 19,199 
| 13,009 
| 6,896 
| 0 
! 39,104 
|-
! 1991 
| 5,017 
| 7,367 
| 6,150 
| 0 
! 18,534 
|-
! 1992 
| 2,953 
| 2,876 
| 1,343 
| 0 
! 7,172 
|-
! 1993 
| 4,058 
| 4,147 
| 1,694 
| 2,475 
! 12,374 
|-
! 1994 
| 2,546 
| 1,155 
| 829 
| 885 
! 5,415 
|-
! 1995 
| 1,724 
| 905 
| 707 
| 292 
! 3,628 
|-
! 1996 
| 1,158 
| 700 
| 577 
| 194 
! 2,629 
|-
! Last 300 
| 171 
| 51 
| 78 
| 0 
! 300 
|-
! Totals 
! 36,826 
! 30,210 
! 18,274 
! 3,846 
! 89,156 
|}
In the US, the same chassis' were available: 

* 2-seater (hard top)
* 2-seater (t-tops)
* 2-seater (convertible)
* 2 by 2 (t-tops)
However, in the US, the Turbo model was '''only''' available as a 2-seater with t-tops. While this chassis was also available in NA form, all other models were only sold as NAs. ''For more detailed information regarding color codes and productions, see article: [[Color Codes]].'' 
===Europe===
Would someone who knows about European Zs edit this section ~_~ 
===Australia===
Any Aussies know about Z32 production in the oz? 

[[Category:General Info]]

Parts Interchangeability

2018-04-05T21:58:46Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

In an effort to lower manufacturing costs, many Nissans from the same era share parts. This article aims to document which parts are interchangeable with the Z32. 
==Key==

* X = Interchangeable
* Y = Similar enough to interchange, but with slight differences.

==Engine & Drivetrain==
{| class="wikitable"
! Part 
! Z32 
! R32 
! R33 
! R34 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Crank Angle Sensor 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Thermostat 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Oil Filter 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
|}

==Suspension==
{| class="wikitable"
! Part 
! Z32 
! R32 
! R33 
! R34 
! S13 
! S14 
! S15 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Rear Struts 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X''' '''
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Front Struts 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | Y* 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | RUCAS 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | Y 
| style="text-align: center" | Y 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | Y 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | HICAS Eliminators 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Tension Rods 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | X 
| style="text-align: center" | 
| style="text-align: center" | 
|}
(*) = Top may need to be replaced with pillowball mount or trimmed to fit the Z32. () = Only GT-R and GTS-4 R32 front struts are compatible. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:General Info]]

Plenum Gasket

2018-04-05T21:58:46Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Plenum Gasket''' (also known as the '''Intake Manifold Gasket''' or '''Caterpillar Gasket''') is a paper/rubber gasket that creates a seal between the [[Intake Manifold|upper intake manifold]] and [[Lower Intake Manifold|lower intake manifold]]. [[File:677l.jpg|frameless|alt=677l.jpg]] 
==Replacement==
When [[Intake Manifold Removal|pulling the intake manifold]], this gasket is almost always damaged or destroyed. It is extremely fragile, and practically impossible to re-use without creating a vacuum leak. Given the labor required to remove the intake manifold and the inexpensive cost of this gasket, it is highly recommended that it be replaced every time the intake manifold is removed. 
==Caterpillar Gasket==
After gathering enough food, many intake manifold gaskets will find a safe spot to hide, then begin weaving themselves into a chrysalis. After several weeks, the chrysalis is broken and the metamorphosized butterfly valve emerges. This is why intake manifold gaskets are sometimes referred to as "caterpillar gaskets." 

[[Category:Parts]]

Precats

2018-04-05T21:58:46Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block"> See article: [[Downpipes]].

PRVR Solenoid

2018-04-05T21:58:40Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Pressure Regulator Vacuum Relief''' (PRVR) '''Solenoid''' is a solenoid valve that controls vacuum pressure to the [[Fuel Pressure Regulator|fuel pressure regulator]]. 
[[File:PRVR~solenoid.jpg|alt=PRVR~solenoid.jpg|thumb|A stock PRVR Solenoid. Image courtesy of Robo's Site (twinturbo.info).]]
 
==Function==
The '''PRVR Solenoid''' is used exclusively during startup on the Z. It's description, per the [[Factory Service Manual]], is as follows: ''The solenoid valve responds to the ON/OFF signal from the ECU. When it is off, a vacuum signal from the intake manifold is fed into the pressure regulator. When the control unit sends and ON signal, the coil pulls the plunger downward and cuts the vacuum signal.'' In short, the PRVR Solenoid raises the fuel pressure under certain conditions. It is believed that it was implemented to prevent "vapor lock", a condition that plagued early 240Zs, but is practically unheard of on modern fuel injected cars. The PRVR Solenoid is controlled by the ECU, which uses the [[Fuel Temp Sensor|fuel temp sensor]] to determine its desired state. 
==Bypass & Removal==
A faulty PRVR Solenoid can cause hard starting, especially when the engine is hot. To simplify the engine bay and vacuum system, many opt to outright remove the PRVR Solenoid and its associated vacuum subsystem. There are practically no ill-effects to this procedure. ''Images courtesy of [http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/138229.html Robo's site].'' 

# Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the fuel filter bracket to the frame. The solenoid and bracket can then be lifted up and removed from the car. [[File:PRVR~bracket.jpg|frameless|alt=PRVR~bracket.jpg]]
# Disconnect the vacuum lines and electrical connector.
# Install a new vacuum line connecting the [[Fuel Pressure Regulator]] directly to the intake manifold. [[File:PRVR$7Ebypass.jpg|frameless|alt=PRVR$7Ebypass.jpg]]
# (Optional) With the driver's side fender removed, the vacuum canister for the PRVR Solenoid can also be removed. (Red X). [[File:PRVR~in~situ$2C~drvr~fndr~wll.jpg|frameless|alt=PRVR~in~situ$2C~drvr~fndr~wll.jpg]]

[[Category:How-To Guides]][[Category:Parts]][[Category:Electronic Fuel Injector]]

Page Guidelines

2018-04-05T21:58:40Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

Noun: A Web site developed collaboratively by a community of users, allowing any user to add and edit content. 
----
 The beauty of a wiki is it's formed by multiple members collaborating towards one common goal. But in order for the wiki to grow while maintaining a certain level of quality, it's necessary that everyone who contributes understands the goal and what it takes to get there. My apologies if this sounds a little too corporate-culture, but it's true. '''Please read through this guide before creating pages or editing the wiki. It's quite long, but consider it a complete guide in building and organizing this wiki.''' 
==The Purpose of this Wiki==
All over the internet you will find countless resources for the Z32. Twinturbo.net, 300ZXClub, nicoclub, ttxtz, aus300zx, ttzd, zcar.com, the list goes on and on. These are primarily forum-driven sites which employ some method of allowing users to create writeups, which are then added (either by the users or moderators) into a dedicated FAQ or Tech section. And for a few writeups, this works great. However, over the years, most of these resources have accumulated a massive amount of information. It's now disorganized and disconnected. If you want to find a writeup about replacing a power steering line, you have to sift through a sea of topics discussing everything else. The search functions usually produce seemingly random results or are totally broken, and by the time you do find the article you're looking for, you'd be lucky if the images still load. My goal with this wiki is to have '''one source''' where users can find practically any piece of information needed for the care and feeding of their Z32. More specifically, this wiki is made up of the following types of articles: 

* How-To Guides: Writeups, walkthroughs, step-by-step instructions explaining how to perform a certain task relating to the Z32. How to [[Injector Testing|test a fuel injector]], how to perform [[ECU Diagnostics]], etc.
* Raw information. [[Production|History of the Z32]], what a [[Turbocharger|turbocharger]] is, etc. A lot of these include "[[Category:Parts]]" pages which simply explain what a part is or what it does. A lot of these pages go on to explain how to replace, install, or repair that part, like the [[Boost Controller]]article. These pages are tagged with both "how-to" tags and "parts" tags, but we'll get into the tagging/category system a bit later. I also really like when these pages include obscure (but useful) figures and technical specifications that may be difficult to find elsewhere.
* Operative pages. Category collection pages, pages about the wiki (like this one), etc. This includes everything from the [[|home]] page to the [[Category:Air Conditioning System]] page. These pages help organize the wiki and allow articles to seamlessly and consistency link with one another in a way that's logical and easy to understand.
I've also tried very hard to impose a common look and feel on every article on the wiki. Pages connect with each other, flow a certain way, and share a common layout. This makes the wiki easier to navigate, it makes how-to guides easier to follow, and generally makes articles easier to understand. It also makes finding vital information quick and painless. 
==General Contributions==
Writing and organizing articles isn't for everyone, and I hold no expectations from anyone who joins the wiki. Even if you have a suggestion as simple as "you should do an article about __," I'm all ears. There are three ways you can communicate this to myself (or anyone else who may be interested in fulfilling your request): 

* Post in the Z32 WIKI section of [http://projectz32.com/ ProjectZ32].
* Click the "Discussion" link on the left-hand side. Note that this will take you to the same discussion board regardless of the topic you're currently viewing.
* [mailto:stadsport@gmail.com Email me].

==Creating Articles==
There's quite a bit more that goes into creating articles than simply clicking "new" and typing away. Even if you're mirroring an article from elsewhere on the internet, all articles should follow these guidelines. 
===Tagging and Categories===
The Wikispaces software allows organizers to apply '''tags''' to pages. You can then organize and manipulate articles that share common tags. For example, all articles explaining a specific car part on the Z32 are tagged with the "parts" tag. Articles relating to the Electronic Fuel Injection system all have the "efi" tag. How-to Guides have the "how-to" tag. You can view the tag of a page by clicking the drop-down arrow on the "page" tab next to the title of the article, then click Details and Tags. [[File:tag1.png|frameless|alt=tag1.png]] This displays a small in-line detail box. [[File:tag2.png|frameless|alt=tag2.png]] You can add or remove tags by clicking the "edit" button. This also displays separate tags in little boxes to clearly differentiate them from one another. [[File:tag3.png|frameless|alt=tag3.png]] Tags shouldn't be confused with keywords. For example, the fuel pump page has the tags '''fuel''' and '''parts''' because these are two categories we want the fuel pump article to show up under. It doesn't include "fuel pump", or "fuelpump", or any other keywords, because they're not necessary. Adding these tags just clutters the tag system. In general, articles should have common tags. We don't add a "fuel pump" tag because the fuel pump article is the only article that would carry the tag. The idea is to sort the articles into common categories, so when someone views pages that share the "fuel" tag, they'll get links to articles including the fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel dampener, etc. If you're creating a new article, add tags that already exist to include the page in relevant categories. If you're not sure if the tag exists, try searching for similar pages and see if they carry any tags. If none exist at all or you're not sure, you can just leave it without tags and another organizer (myself, at the very least) will create one. The page will still show up by searching, regardless of whether or not it has tags. 
===Category Pages===
You may notice that there are several pages with the "(Category)" suffix. These are pages I have created to give users a simple, straight-foward list of pages sharing a common tag. A few examples of these are: 

So if I created a tag (like '''fuel''' or '''efi''' or '''parts'''), there has to be a "(Category)" page for that tag. And, for the sake of consistency (and maybe insanity) there is even a page giving a list of Category pages-- [[Categories]]. At least I didn't name it "Categories (Category)", right? 
==Related Articles==
*[[File:tag4.png|frameless|alt=tag4.png]]
*[[File:toc1.png|frameless|alt=toc1.png]]
*[[File:toc2.png|frameless|alt=toc2.png]]
*[[File:toc3.png|frameless|alt=toc3.png]]
*[[File:toc4.png|frameless|alt=toc4.png]]
*[[Boost Controller]]
*[[File:boostcontrollerarticle.png|frameless|alt=boostcontrollerarticle.png]]
*[[ECU Diagnostics]]
*[[ECU]]
*[[File:1301903134515.jpg|frameless|alt=1301903134515.jpg]]
*[[File:source.png|frameless|alt=source.png]]
*[[File:toolspartsneeded.png|alt=toolspartsneeded.png|thumb|Tools Needed and Parts Needed subsections.]]
*[[File:svt_example.png|frameless|alt=svt_example.png]]
*[[File:svt_example2.png|frameless|alt=svt_example2.png]]
*[[File:svt_example3.png|frameless|alt=svt_example3.png]]
*[[File:svt_example4.png|frameless|alt=svt_example4.png]]
*[[File:svt_example5.png|frameless|alt=svt_example5.png]]
*[[File:svt_example6.png|frameless|alt=svt_example6.png]]

PCV Reroute

2018-04-05T21:58:36Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The PCV system is designed to allow oil vapor from the crank case to ventilate into the intake manifold where it is combusted. However, anyone who has taken their Z around an autocross/road course has probably been black-flagged for excessive smoke. The stock PCV system allows LOT of oil to get sucked into the intake, which ends up spewing smoke out the exhaust. The '''PCV Reroute''' will allow you to retain the function of the PCV system while helping to reduce the amount of oil consumption caused by high lateral G-forces in cornering. Prerequisite: [[Intake Manifold Removal]]. ''Images from Woody75's TT.net writeup [http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1019112 here].''
==Tools Needed==

* Pliers
* Cutting tools
* Philips and flat-head screwdrivers.

==Parts Needed==

* Power Drill
* 7/16" Drill Bit
* Liquid Gasket maker
* 1/4 x 18 NPT tap
* 3/8" NPT tap
* 2x 3/8" to 1/4" Barbed-to-Threaded fittings
* 2x 3/8" threaded NPT plugs.
* 2x 3/8" to 3/8" Barbed-to-Barbed fittings
* ~4 ft of 3/8" rubber hose

==Procedure==
===Tapping New Breather Ports===

# Remove the [[Valve Cover|Valve Covers]].
# Using a 7/16" drill bit, drill new breather holes in the intake valve covers. These should be on the "center" high point on the intake valve cover, point towards each other (towards the center of the engine). [[File:PCVReroute6.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute6.jpg]]
# Tap these holes (lol) with a 1/4 x 18 NPT tap. [[File:PCVReroute7.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute7.jpg]]
# Thoroughly clean the valve covers using brake parts cleaner to get rid of any metal shavings. You want these totally clean.
# Install your 3/8" x 1/4" Barbed to Threaded Fittings. Use a small amount of liquid gasket to ensure a good seal. [[File:PCVReroute8.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute8.jpg]]

===Removing & Capping Old Breather Ports===

# Locate the original breather ports and remove them with pliers (they're just pressed in). [[File:PCVReroute10.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute10.jpg]]
# Tap the holes with the 3/8" tap, matching whatever thread pitch your plugs are.
# Thoroughly clean the valve covers with brake parts cleaner to get rid of any metal shavings.
# Install your 3/8" NPT plugs. Use some liquid gasket to make a good seal. [[File:PCVReroute27.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute27.jpg]]
Alternatively, some use 3/8" press-fit freeze plugs and liquid gasket to avoid having to drill and tap. 
===Routing The New Hose===

# Run some 3/8" hose from the new barb fittings to the approximate location of the old breather ports, near the PCV valves. Don't connect it at the valve covers yet, just size to cut.
# Use a 3/8" x 3/8" barb fitting to joint the two hoses together. Install clamps to ensure a tight fit. [[File:PCVReroute15.jpg|alt=PCVReroute15.jpg|thumb|This person also opted to loop the old breather ports to each other.]][[File:PCVReroute14.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute14.jpg]]
# Reinstall the intake manifold.
# Connect the new hose at the valve covers. [[File:PCVReroute17.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute17.jpg]]
Some people opt to instead use metal fuel lines instead for a cleaner look. This allows you to run the hose closer to the engine without fear of degradation from heat damage. [[File:PCVReroute22.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute22.jpg]] Going a step further, some opt to [[PCV Delete|remove the PCV system completely]]. 

[[Category:How-To Guides]]

PCV Delete

2018-04-05T21:58:33Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

As an alternative to [[PCV Reroute|rerouting the PCV system]], some owners opt to remove the system outright. There is a bit of controversy over the safety and effectiveness, but for the most part, it is an accepted method to help simplify the engine bay. 
==Procedure==
''Prerequisites: Remove the [[Intake Manifold Removal|intake manifold]] and [[Valve Cover|valve covers]]. Thanks to Ash for originally posting this procedure [http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2433040/PCV-System-Explained-Deleted-gtgtgt.html here].''
===Tools Needed===

* 3/8" NPT tap
* Pliers
* Scissors/snips for cutting hose
===Parts Needed===

* <1ft of 1/2" rubber hose.
* 2x small air filters (they look like baby pop chargers). Must have 1/2" ID opening.
* 2x 1/8" BSPT plugs.
* 2x 5/8" NPT Plugs.
===Removing & Blocking the Old Ports===

# Locate the original breather ports and remove them with pliers (they're just pressed in). Remove the hoses if you haven't already done so. [[File:PCVReroute10.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute10.jpg]]
# Tap the holes with the 5/8" NPT tap.
# Thoroughly clean the valve covers with brake parts cleaner to get rid of any metal shavings.
# Install your 5/8" NPT plugs. Use some liquid gasket to make a good seal. [[File:PCVReroute27.jpg|frameless|alt=PCVReroute27.jpg]]
Alternatively, some use 5/8" press-fit freeze plugs and liquid gasket to avoid having to drill and tap. 
===Blocking the Plenum Fittings & PCV Ports===

# If you haven't already done so, remove the PCV hoses that lead to the back of the engine, and remove the lines ''at'' the back of the engine.
# Remove the PCV valves on the underside of the intake manifold.
# Install the 1/4" BSPT plugs into the PCV valve fitting on the plenum. Use a small amount of liquid gasket maker to ensure a good seal.
#* Be careful not to over-tighten them, as the holes are conical, and over-tightening them will cause the port on the plenum to split.
# Install the 1/4" rubber caps onto the nipple on the accordion pipes which used to run to the intake valve covers.

===Installing Breathers (Optional)===

# Cut approximately 4" of your 1/2" rubber hose.
# Insert a 1/2"x1/2" barbed-to-barbed fitting into the hose. Use a spring clamp if necessary to keep its fit snug.
# Install your small breather filter at the other end of the barbed fitting.
# Fit the new hose/filter assembly to the old PCV port on the intake valve covers. Use a spring clamp if necessary.
# Repeat for the opposite side. [[File:P4190465.jpg|alt=P4190465.jpg|thumb|Image from Ash's Z on tt.net]]
''Note: Some owners opt to simply remove the PCV valve and rear pipe routing, but leave the intake valve cover to accordion pipe hoses in place. This is completely optional.'' 
==Controversy==
Some have noted that removing the PCV system could lead to excess crank case pressure, or that TTs create too much blow-by and this method will blow out the dipstick and have oil draining from the filters. However, as long as the intake valve ports are open (filtered or hooked up to the accordion pipe), the crank case can breath. This bypass also has no effect on the blow-by created by the engine, and shouldn't affect the system's ability to manage such blow-by. The PCV system is largely an emissions control feature; older vehicles simply allowed excess vapor to ventilate and oil to drain to the ground. Finally, it has been argued that allowing the PCV system to breath via a filter will allow water to contaminate the gasoline. However, a member (xpwarrior on tt.net) recently had his oil analyzed after running for several thousand miles with the system deleted. In fact, this owner didn't even use filters, and instead just let the pipes breath straight to the ground. ''Original thread [http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2444147/Deleted-PCV-Oil-Analysis.html here]. Analysis report mirrored below.'' [[File:OilAnalysis.jpg|frameless|alt=OilAnalysis.jpg]] 

[[Category:How-To Guides]]

Oil Squirter

2018-04-05T21:58:32Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

<div id="content_view" class="wiki" style="display: block">'''Oil Squirters''' or '''Oil Jets''' are small jets mounted to the engine block which spray oil upwards at the undersides of the pistons, in order to help cool the pistons. They are different between NAs and TTs, but some building high power TT engines use NA jets as they provide more oil. 
[[File:2507l.jpg|alt=2507l.jpg|thumb|Picture Source: Concept Z Performance]]

[[Category:Parts]]

Overflow Tank

2018-04-05T21:58:32Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Overflow Tank''' (sometimes called the '''Overflow Bottle''' or '''Coolant Reservoir''') is a tank that stores excess coolant, until the cooling system cools enough to retract and suck it back up. [[File:Used_Coolant_Overflow_Reservoir.jpg|frameless|alt=Used_Coolant_Overflow_Reservoir.jpg]] 
==Operation==
As the pressure in the [[Cooling System|cooling system]] exceeds that at which the [[Radiator Cap|radiator cap]] is rated, the radiator cap bleeds the excess pressure off. From there, it runs into the overflow tank. Once the cooling system has cooled down and the coolant has contracted, it creates a vacuum which then pulls the excess coolant up from the overflow tank and back into the [[Radiator|radiator]]. 
==Location==
The stock overflow tank is located on the driver's side (LHD), in front of the front wheel. In a stock twin turbo, it is directly behind the driver's side intercooler. The overflow tank uses a filler neck which leads from the tank to the small corner behind the driver's side headlight, where it is attached to the body of the car. The cap for the filler neck also includes a dip stick to indicate the level of fluid inside the overflow tank. Because of its location directly behind the driver's side [[Intercooler|intercooler]], some twin turbo owners feel the overflow tank impedes airflow through the intercooler and therefore relocate it to a place less obstructive. This is often difficult with the stock overflow tank, as it's quite long and flat. A common "upgrade" is to mount a smaller cylindrical overflow tank to the frame rail under the driver's side headlight, in front of the radiator. 

[[Category:Parts]][[Category:Cooling System]]

Oil Pump

2018-04-05T21:58:30Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''oil pump''' is a pump mounted to the engine that supplies pressurized oil to various components in the engine. It is vital to the engine's performance and longevity. 
[[File:715l.jpg|alt=715l.jpg|thumb|A Z32's oil pump.]]
 
==Location and Function==
The oil pump is mounted to the front of the engine. The underside of it essentially forms the front lower corner of the engine, providing a place for the front of the oil pan to mount and seal. It is driven by the crankshaft directly, with no chain or belt. Internally, the oil pump features a staggered gear setup that draws oil from the [[Oil Pan|oil pan]] via the [[Oil Pickup Tube|oil pickup tube]], and pumps it through various engine components such as the crankshaft, bearings, oil squirters, cam journals, cams, lifters, and turbos. The oil pump also has a bleeder spring that opens and closes to regulate the pressure produced by the pump. 
==Differences==
Z32 oil pumps are all very similar, but there are a few different versions. 
{| class="wikitable"
! 
! Non-Turbo 
! Twin-Turbo 
|-
| '''90-93''' 
| Early-Style 
| Early-Style 
|-
| '''94+''' 
| Late-Style 
| Early-Style 
|}
Essentially, 94+ NAs received a revised oil pump. This revised design is also found in replacement NA oil pumps, even those for 90-93 applications, indicating that they're interchangeable. It is unknown if there are any performance or durability differences. 
==Early-Style vs Late-Style==
The early and late-style are visually very similar but internally different. The early style uses gears with sharp teeth and a wedge between their negative space, while the late-style uses a lobular pair of gears. The late-style also appears to have a larger galley capable of holding more oil It is unknown if there are any performance or durability differences. 
{| class="wikitable"
|
[[File:user73149_pic6227_1339461135.jpg|frameless|alt=user73149_pic6227_1339461135.jpg]] 
|
[[File:user73149_pic6232_1339462199.jpg|frameless|alt=user73149_pic6232_1339462199.jpg]] 
|-
| style="text-align: center" | Early-Style Oil Pump. Click for full size. 
| style="text-align: center" | Late-Style Oil Pump. Click for full size. 
|}
 
==NA vs TT==
While identical cosmetically and (almost) identical functionally, NA and TT oil pumps are slightly different. While they can flow the same amount of oil, NA pumps have a slightly weaker bleeder spring, so they actually produce less real-world oil pressure. The additional pressure is to support An NA oil pump can be "converted" to a TT oil pump by simply replacing the spring. 

[[Category:Engine Components]][[Category:Parts]]

Oil Pressure Sending Unit

2018-04-05T21:58:29Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''Oil Pressure Sending Unit''' (or '''OPSU''') is a sensor that reads the oil pressure and sends it to the [[Gauge Cluster|gauge cluster]]. [[File:976l.jpg|frameless|alt=976l.jpg]] 
==Function==
As implied by the name, the OPSU is a simple sensor that returns a variable output resistance depending on the pressure exerted on it's internal diaphragm. It is used only for the oil pressure gauge, and is not monitored by the ECU or any other engine control components. 
==Location==
The OPSU can be found in one of two locations: on the oil filter tree (left hand drive models) or the left side of the block (left turbo feed line on TT models) for right hand drive cars. The Oil Pressure Sending Unit uses a ⅛ BSPT, as do most aftermarket OPSUs (at least, those from Japanese manufacturers). NISMO once sold a T-Fitting to run two oil pressure sending units (ie, stock and aftermarket), which was basically a three-way female ended ⅛ BSPT T-Fitting with a male-male ⅛ BSPT adapter on the end. P/N 25073-RN010, this part is no longer available. 
{| class="wikitable"
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:usdm_opsu_location.jpg|frameless|alt=usdm_opsu_location.jpg]] 
| style="text-align: center" |
[[File:jdm_opsu_location.jpg|frameless|alt=jdm_opsu_location.jpg]] 
|-
| style="text-align: center" |
The OPSU location on a USDM (LHD) engine. Image from [http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2448810/Slow-build-update--Lots-of-pics.html Boosted1 on TwinTurbo.net]. Click for full size. 
| style="text-align: center" |
The OPSU location on a Japanese (RHD) engine. Image from [http://www.300zxclub.com/showpost.php?p=2182964&postcount=12 jcarver81 on 300ZXClub]. Click for full size. 
|}

==Failure==
The OPSU is a common point of failure. It's feed hole is quite small and easily becomes clogged by contaminants in the oil, or thicker oil viscosity. It can be cleaned or replaced easily during any oil change by simply unscrewing it from it's mount. It does not require any thread locker for installation, as it receives its electrical ground through its threads. When the OPSU fails, the oil pressure gauge will read little or no oil pressure. It is important to listen for any ticking (ie, lifter tick) or other strange noises to verify that the oil pressure isn't actually low. Running an engine with little or no oil pressure will lead to severe damage (and up to complete failure) of the engine. Because of its unreliability, many owners also install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. 
===Oil Tree O-Ring===
Some owners report replacing the OPSU multiple times and finding each unit reporting low oil pressure readings. While the OPSU is prone to failure, it usually lasts several years before giving up the ghost. This sort of chronic low oil pressure reading is usually either caused by either truly low oil pressure, or failure of an internal o-ring in the [[Oil Filter Tree|oil filter tree]]. 
[[File:rebuild_24.jpg|alt=rebuild_24.jpg|thumb|Image from Twinturbo.net. Click for full size.]]
 This O-ring is located inside the main oil gallery of the oil filter tree where the tree meets the block. It is quite easy to replace with the engine out, as removal of the oil tree only requires a few bolts to come out. However, with the engine in, it's practically impossible, if not just due to the difficulty in cleaning the paper gasket from the oil tree's mating surface. It should be noted that when this O-ring fails, the oil pressure isn't ''actually'' low. It simply allows oil to bypass the oil filter (and OPSU) which, while not a good thing, certainly isn't as serious as a true low oil pressure condition. 

[[Category:Engine Components]][[Category:Parts]]

Oil Pan

2018-04-05T21:58:25Z

Maintenance script: Imported from text file

The '''oil pan''' or '''sump''' is a large metal pan mounted to the underside of the engine. It holds engine oil, to be drawn up by the [[Oil Pump|oil pump]] via the [[Oil Pickup Tube|oil pickup tube]]. 
[[File:2597l.jpg|alt=2597l.jpg|thumb|A TT Z32 Oil Pan. Click for full size.]]
 
==Differences==
The NA and TT oil pans are virtually identical, carrying the same capacities and featuring the same internal baffling. The only difference is that the TT oil pan has ports for the turbo and oil cooler return hoses. The NA oil pan does not have these ports. 
==Design & Faults==
The inside of the oil pan was well designed for its time and application, and it features extensive internal baffling to prevent oil from sploshing around, as well as help channel it back to the main portion of the sump so it can be picked up by the oil pickup tube. 
[[File:DSC00293.jpg|alt=DSC00293.jpg|thumb|The oil pan's internal baffles and guides. Click for full size.]]
 However, to make the VG30DE(TT) fit under the Z32's low hood, some compromises had to be made. Notably here, the oil pan capacity was significantly reduced. This meant that the VG30DE(TT) only held about 3 5/8qts of oil in the pan, a very small amount for it's size and displacement. While this is a non-issue for ordinary driving, sustained high RPM can lead to reduced oil in the pan, and high lateral G-force can slosh oil towards the sides of the pan, away from the pickup tube. Some recommend filling exactly 4qts, but others advise that overfilling the pan can be dangerous, as it increases the possibility of the crankshaft churning up oil, mixing in air and reducing it's lubricity. 
==Alternatives & Solutions==
There are a few aftermarket oil pan solutions available. Both SpecialtyZ and EP Racing produce high-capacity oil pans with trap doors and added baffling. To someone road racing or drifting their Z, these are an invaluable upgrade to help protect the engine and prevent oil starvation. 
{| class="wikitable"
|
[[File:img_1736.jpg|frameless|alt=img_1736.jpg]] 
|
[[File:DSCN1828.JPG|frameless|alt=DSCN1828.JPG]] 
|-
|
[https://specialtyz.com/shop/sz-vg30de-tt-oil-pan.html SpecialtyZ 6qt Oil Pan]. Click for full size. 
|
[http://epracing.net/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=32 EP Racing 8qt Oil Pan]. Click for full size. 
|}
 A more extreme alternative is to convert the system to a dry sump setup. A dry-sump system features a scavenger pump, and often an external oil supply, to provide adequate oil pressure at any RPM and situation. Currently, [http://www.daileyengineering.com/vg 30 DETT.htm Dailey Engineering] produces a belt-driven dry-sump setup that takes the place of the A/C compressor. 
[[File:20-02-0654%20PHOTO%203.jpg|alt=20-02-0654%20PHOTO%203.jpg|thumb|The Daily Engineering Dry Sump Setup. Click for full size.]]
 

[[Category:Engine Components]][[Category:Parts]]